Modeling the morphological response of a barrier island to Hurricane Matthew

Surge and wave forcing from Hurricane Matthew caused a breach south of Matanzas Inlet (FL, USA) on a complex barrier island, including sandy dunes, hard structures (residential buildings and a highway), wetlands, and the US Intracoastal Waterway. In this paper, the skill of the XBeach model to predict hurricane-induced barrier island overwash, dune erosion, and breaching is demonstrated. The location of the breach is predicted correctly if bottom roughness based on land cover is used to calculate bed shear stresses. While the dunes are initially lowered by wave attack and surge from the ocean side, the main driver for breach formation is the water level difference between the back-barrier and nearshore, causing an ocean-directed outflow of water after the peak of the storm.