Data plots from UWAFRE

Cross correlation of the offshore incoming wave envelope SS_env,0 with the (a, d) total (incoming plus outgoing), (b, e) incoming, and (c, f) outgoing low-pass filtered (f < 0.22 Hz; IG) wave time series for Run 2 (right column) with and (left column) without roughness. Fewer directional than nondirectional wave gauges resulted in fewer observation points in Figures b, c, e, and f. The black dashed line offshore of the reef crest provides the predicted shoreward propagation of a wave bound to the sea-swell wave groups traveling at the group velocity. Shoreward of the reef crest, waves are assumed to be free and traveling at the linear shallow water phase speed (dashed black line shoreward of reef crest). Red dashed lines give the outgoing propagation of free waves reflected or generated through the breakpoint mechanism at the reef crest and waves reflected from the shoreline.