Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center
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We conduct multidisciplinary scientific research in the coastal and offshore areas of California, Oregon, Washington, Alaska, Hawaii, and other US Pacific Islands; and in other waterways of the United States.
Research Projects
Read about our science projects, find out where we are working, and why our research matters
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News
A True Gentleman and World-Class Geoscientist: Monty Allen Hampton, 1941–2019
Modified from the Half Moon Bay Review obituary and expanded with text from email tributes sent by Monty’s colleagues.
Sound Waves Newsletter - Special Issue on Deep-Sea Research
In honor of National Ocean Month, this issue highlights USGS research from the deep sea.
Earthquakes, Landslides, and Tsunamis: Mapping Geohazards in the Cascadia Subduction Zone
The geologic research and mapping in the offshore areas is foundational to understanding how to manage resources and improve public safety in subduction zone areas.
Publications
In situ observations of wave transformation and infragravity bore development across reef flats of varying geomorphology
The character and energetics of infragravity (IG, 25 s < period < 250 s) and very-low frequency (VLF, period > 250 s) waves over coral reef flats can enhance shoreline erosion or accretion, and also govern extreme shoreline events such as runup, overwash, and flooding on coral reef-lined coasts. Here we use in situ wave measurements...
Cheriton, Olivia; Storlazzi, Curt D.; Rosenberger, Kurt J. In situ observations of wave transformation and infragravity bore development across reef flats of varying geomorphology
The character and energetics of infragravity (IG, 25 s < period < 250 s) and very-low frequency (VLF, period > 250 s) waves over coral reef flats can enhance shoreline erosion or accretion, and also govern extreme shoreline events such as runup, overwash, and flooding on coral reef-lined coasts. Here we use in situ wave measurements...
Cheriton, Olivia; Storlazzi, Curt D.; Rosenberger, Kurt J. Selective sediment transport during Hurricane Sandy on Fire Island (New York, USA): Inferences from heavy-mineral assemblages
In October 2012, Hurricane Sandy caused severe erosion on beaches and dunes of Fire Island (New York, USA). Major shoreline changes occurred with erosional dominance in the upper shoreline and aggradation in the lowermost section of the beach due to the deposition of eroded upper beach and dune sediment. Sand laminations with a high concentration...
Cascalho, João; Costa, Pedro; Gelfenbaum, Guy R.; La Selle, Seanpaul; Jaffe, Bruce E.