Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center

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We conduct multidisciplinary scientific research in the coastal and offshore areas of California, Oregon, Washington, Alaska, Hawaii, and other US Pacific Islands; and in other waterways of the United States.

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Research Projects

Read about our science projects, find out where we are working, and why it matters

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Seminar Series

Join us for public seminars at the Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center in Santa Cruz, CA

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Publications

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Year Published: 2019

The roles of flow acceleration and deceleration in sediment suspension in the surf zone

Prediction of sediment suspension in the surf zone remains elusive. We explore how suspended sediment concentration at 19 cm above the bed in the mid-surf zone during a storm is influenced by flow acceleration and deceleration. There is a tendency for higher suspended sediment concentrations during onshore flow, with decelerating onshore flows...

Jaffe, Bruce E.; La Selle, Seanpaul
Jaffe, B.E., and La Selle, S., 2019, The roles of flow acceleration and deceleration in sediment suspension in the surf zone: in Wang, P., Rosati, J.D., and Vallee, M., eds., Coastal Sediments 2019, Proceedings of the 9th International Conference: World Scientific, Hackensack, New Jersey, p. 565-576, https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0050.

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Year Published: 2019

Measuring settling velocity in a strongly tidal estuary

Predicting sediment transport in estuarine systems requires understanding sediment settling velocity, its range of fluctuations, and the shortcomings of the tools to measure it. Previous studies have used Laser In-Situ Scattering and Transmissometry (LISST) instruments to measure particle size and Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADV) to return...

Allen, Rachel (Contractor); Lacy, Jessica R.; Variano, Evan A
Allen, R.M., Variano, E.A., and Lacy, J.R., 2019, Measuring settling velocity in a strongly tidal estuary: in Wang, P., Rosati, J.D., and Vallee, M., eds., Coastal Sediments 2019, Proceedings of the 9th International Conference: World Scientific, Hackensack, New Jersey, p. 2423-2434, https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0207.

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Year Published: 2019

Assessing morphologic controls on atoll island alongshore sediment transport gradients due to future sea-level rise

Atoll islands’ alongshore sediment transport gradients depend on how island and reef morphology affect incident wave energy. It is unclear, though, how potential atoll morphologic configurations influence shoreline erosion and/or accretion patterns, and how these relationships will respond to future sea-level rise (SLR). Schematic atoll models...

Shope, James B.; Storlazzi, Curt D.