Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center

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We conduct multidisciplinary scientific research in the coastal and offshore areas of California, Oregon, Washington, Alaska, Hawaii, and other US Pacific Islands; and in other waterways of the United States.

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Research Projects

Read about our science projects, find out where we are working, and why it matters

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Seminar Series

Join us for public seminars at the Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center in Santa Cruz, CA

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Publications

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Year Published: 2019

The major coral reefs of Maui Nui, Hawai‘i—distribution, physical characteristics, oceanographic controls, and environmental threats

Coral reefs are widely recognized as critical to Hawaiʻi’s economy, food resources, and protection from damaging storm waves. Yet overfishing, land-based pollution, and climate change are threatening the health and sustainability of those reefs, and accordingly, both the Federal and State governments have called for protection and effective...

Field, Michael E.; Storlazzi, Curt D.; Gibbs, Ann E.; D'Antonio, Nicole L.; Cochran, Susan A.
Field, M.E., Storlazzi, C.D., Gibbs, A.E., D’Antonio, N.L., and Cochran, S.A, 2019, The major coral reefs of Maui Nui, Hawai‘i—Distribution, physical characteristics, oceanographic controls, and environmental threats: U.S. Geological Survey Open-File Report 2019–1019, 71 p., https://doi.org/10.3133/ofr20191019.

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Year Published: 2019

The roles of flow acceleration and deceleration in sediment suspension in the surf zone

Prediction of sediment suspension in the surf zone remains elusive. We explore how suspended sediment concentration at 19 cm above the bed in the mid-surf zone during a storm is influenced by flow acceleration and deceleration. There is a tendency for higher suspended sediment concentrations during onshore flow, with decelerating onshore flows...

Jaffe, Bruce E.; La Selle, Seanpaul
Jaffe, B.E., and La Selle, S., 2019, The roles of flow acceleration and deceleration in sediment suspension in the surf zone: in Wang, P., Rosati, J.D., and Vallee, M., eds., Coastal Sediments 2019, Proceedings of the 9th International Conference: World Scientific, Hackensack, New Jersey, p. 565-576, https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0050.

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Year Published: 2019

Linking direct measurements of turbidity currents to submarine canyon-floor deposits

Submarine canyons are conduits for episodic and powerful sediment density flows (commonly called turbidity currents) that move globally significant amounts of terrestrial sediment and organic carbon into the deep sea, forming some of the largest sedimentary deposits on Earth. The only record available for most turbidity currents is the deposit...

Maier, Katherine L.; Gales, Jenny; Paull, Charles K.; Rosenberger, Kurt J.; Talling, Peter J.; Simmons, Stephen; Gwiazda, Roberto; McGann, Mary; Cartigny, Matthieu J.B.; Lundsten, Eve M.; Anderson, Krystle; Clare, Michael; Xu, Jingping; Parsons, Daniel; Barry, James P.; Wolfson-Schwher, Monica; Nieminski, Nora M.; Sumner, Esther J