Grain-size analysis of sediment samples collected in the nearshore zone offshore of Marconi Beach, Wellfleet, MA, December 9, 2024

The U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) Woods Hole Coastal and Marine Science Center deployed a nanopod to collect measurements of winter wave conditions directly offshore of Marconi Beach in Wellfleet, MA. Supplementary sediment samples were collected to characterize grain size. Marconi Beach is the site of ongoing measurements of wave runup, and this field work provides information on the incident waves and water levels that are ultimately responsible for wave runup on the beach. Maps of subaerial topography and nearshore bathymetry were made to augment the wave and runup measurements. These observations will allow us to test and validate models of wave shoaling and transformation and generation of wave runup. The larger objective of this work is to provide validation and indicate needed improvements for the Total Water Level and Coastal Change forecasts made publicly available in real time by the USGS. These forecasts provide information that emergency managers and the American public can use to help safeguard coastal property, businesses, energy production and distribution facilities, and national security installations.