Skip to main content
U.S. flag

An official website of the United States government

Two-dimensional inverse energy cascade in a laboratory surf zone for varying wave directional spread

December 19, 2023

Surfzone eddies enhance the dispersion and transport of contaminants, bacteria, and larvae across the nearshore, altering coastal water quality and ecosystem health. During directionally spread wave conditions, vertical vortices (horizontal eddies) are injected near the ends of breaking crests. Energy associated with these eddies may be transferred to larger-scale, low-frequency rotational motions through an inverse energy cascade, consistent with two-dimensional turbulence. However, our understanding of the relationships between the wave conditions and the dynamics and energetics of low-frequency surfzone eddies are largely based on numerical modeling. Here, we test these relationships with remotely sensed and in situ observations from large-scale directional wave basin experiments with varying wave conditions over alongshore-uniform barred bathymetry. Surface velocities derived with particle image velocimetry were employed to assess the spatial scales of low-frequency surfzone eddies and compute structure functions with alongshore velocities. Second-order structure functions for directionally spread waves (⁠ 

Publication Year 2023
Title Two-dimensional inverse energy cascade in a laboratory surf zone for varying wave directional spread
DOI 10.1063/5.0169895
Authors Christine Baker, Melissa Moulton, C Chris Chickadel, Emma Nuss, Margaret L. Palmsten, Katherine L. Brodie
Publication Type Article
Publication Subtype Journal Article
Series Title Physics of Fluids
Index ID 70259695
Record Source USGS Publications Warehouse
USGS Organization St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center
Was this page helpful?