Long-term coastal change can occur over historical (10s to 100s years) and geological time scales (100s-1000s years). At Fire Island, the historical record of the position of the island goes back to the 1800s. Changes since then are quantified using historical maps, aerial photos, and modern coastal mapping techniques.
By studying long term coastal changes and behavior at Fire Island, USGS researchers are able to measure and evaluate how the island has evolved through time, and therefore better understand where future change may be most likely. Long-term coastal change occurs over historical (10s to 100s of years) and geological time scales (100s-1000s of years). At Fire Island, the historical record of the position of the island goes back to the 1800s, which has been captured in maps and aerial photos collected since that time.
Analyses of 80-years of shoreline change and 40-years of morphologic change demonstrate distinct variations in island behavior over time periods ranging from decades to centuries. Changes have been linked with human activity, as well as documented variations in island morphology, and offshore geologic features which influences the wave energy reaching the coast.
Morphologic Change
An assessment of morphologic change for the beaches and dunes at Fire Island over a 40 year period (from 1969 to 2009) shows changes are linked with human activity, as well as documented variations in island morphology, and offshore bathymetry which influences the wave energy reaching the coast. The western reach of the island has an ample sediment supply, demonstrated through rapid growth of Democrat Point over the last several centuries. The western and central portions of the island are linked with offshore geologic features, and home to a number of communities where replenishment projects have occurred over the years.
Shoreline Dynamics
A study of alongshore variation of shoreline change shows distinct differences in the movement and position of this dynamic feature. The shoreline assessment was conducted using a database of over 35 shorelines spanning nearly 80 years (1933-2012) and is regularly updated as new data are available.
The shoreline change pattern appears to be largely controlled by the regional geology. The 80-year shoreline change record demonstrates three distinct zones of behavior. To the east, the overall pattern is long-term, persistent erosion and corresponds to the portion of the island that has been shown to be moving landward over much longer time scales (centuries and longer).
Shoreline behavior along the western portion of the island is more variable than other portions of the island, and the average net change is near zero (although there are zones of erosion and accretion). The patterns of change are pervasive and repeating and have a length scaling similar to the field of sand ridges mapped on the adjacent seabed.
The central portion of the barrier is exhibiting seaward progradation over the time-scale of this analysis. This area of gain corresponds to the offshore location of a lobe of glaciofluvial sediment that is linked to a bathymetric high on the seabed. The island is also on average higher in elevation in this area making it less susceptible to erosion.
Below are other science projects associated with this project.
Coastal System Change at Fire Island, New York
Back-barrier and Estuarine - Coastal System Change at Fire Island, New York
Oceanside Beaches and Dunes - Coastal System Change at Fire Island, New York
Open Ocean/Marine - Coastal System Change at Fire Island, New York
Nearshore - Coastal System Change at Fire Island, New York
Below are publications associated with this project.
Decoupling processes and scales of shoreline morphodynamics
Application of Bayesian Networks to hindcast barrier island morphodynamics
Improving understanding of near-term barrier island evolution through multi-decadal assessment of morphologic change
Quantifying anthropogenically driven morphologic changes on a barrier island: Fire Island National Seashore, New York
Inner shelf morphologic controls on the dynamics of the beach and bar system, Fire Island, New York
Geologic framework influences on the geomorphology of an anthropogenically modified barrier island: Assessment of dune/beach changes at Fire Island, New York
A review of sediment budget imbalances along Fire Island, New York: Can nearshore geologic framework and patterns of shoreline change explain the deficit?
Influence of inner-continental shelf geologic framework on the evolution and behavior of the barrier-island system between Fire Island Inlet and Shinnecock Inlet, Long Island, New York
- Overview
Long-term coastal change can occur over historical (10s to 100s years) and geological time scales (100s-1000s years). At Fire Island, the historical record of the position of the island goes back to the 1800s. Changes since then are quantified using historical maps, aerial photos, and modern coastal mapping techniques.
By studying long term coastal changes and behavior at Fire Island, USGS researchers are able to measure and evaluate how the island has evolved through time, and therefore better understand where future change may be most likely. Long-term coastal change occurs over historical (10s to 100s of years) and geological time scales (100s-1000s of years). At Fire Island, the historical record of the position of the island goes back to the 1800s, which has been captured in maps and aerial photos collected since that time.
Analyses of 80-years of shoreline change and 40-years of morphologic change demonstrate distinct variations in island behavior over time periods ranging from decades to centuries. Changes have been linked with human activity, as well as documented variations in island morphology, and offshore geologic features which influences the wave energy reaching the coast.
Morphologic Change
An assessment of morphologic change for the beaches and dunes at Fire Island over a 40 year period (from 1969 to 2009) shows changes are linked with human activity, as well as documented variations in island morphology, and offshore bathymetry which influences the wave energy reaching the coast. The western reach of the island has an ample sediment supply, demonstrated through rapid growth of Democrat Point over the last several centuries. The western and central portions of the island are linked with offshore geologic features, and home to a number of communities where replenishment projects have occurred over the years.
The profiles along western and central Fire Island show minimal change and in some cases the dune system is growing seaward (Profiles a-d). In contrast, on the eastern side of the island where there is documented historical and recent inlet formation and extensive bayside marsh development, there is substantial landward translation of the dune–beach profile over time (Profile e). Alongshore plots of different morphologic features show that movement of the shoreline and dune crest, and change in the dune elevation are minimal (near zero) in the western and central portions of Fire Island. Along the eastern segment of the island, there is measurable landward movement of the shoreline and dune crest (below zero), as well as dune crest elevation loss. Shoreline Dynamics
A study of alongshore variation of shoreline change shows distinct differences in the movement and position of this dynamic feature. The shoreline assessment was conducted using a database of over 35 shorelines spanning nearly 80 years (1933-2012) and is regularly updated as new data are available.
The shoreline change pattern appears to be largely controlled by the regional geology. The 80-year shoreline change record demonstrates three distinct zones of behavior. To the east, the overall pattern is long-term, persistent erosion and corresponds to the portion of the island that has been shown to be moving landward over much longer time scales (centuries and longer).
Shoreline behavior along the western portion of the island is more variable than other portions of the island, and the average net change is near zero (although there are zones of erosion and accretion). The patterns of change are pervasive and repeating and have a length scaling similar to the field of sand ridges mapped on the adjacent seabed.
The central portion of the barrier is exhibiting seaward progradation over the time-scale of this analysis. This area of gain corresponds to the offshore location of a lobe of glaciofluvial sediment that is linked to a bathymetric high on the seabed. The island is also on average higher in elevation in this area making it less susceptible to erosion.
Plot showing rates of shoreline erosion (red) and accretion (green) for 79 years at Fire Island. There are three distinct zone of long-term behavior that mimic the overall shape of the island suggesting the 79-year rates of change are representative of the longer-term island evolution. The different zones correspond to mapped variation in the geology offshore of Fire Island. - Science
Below are other science projects associated with this project.
Coastal System Change at Fire Island, New York
Fire Island is a 50-km long barrier island along the south shore of Long Island, New York. The island is comprised of seventeen year-round communities; federal, state, and county parks; and supports distinct ecosystems alongside areas of economic and cultural value. In addition to providing resources to its residents, the barrier island also protects the heavily-populated mainland from storm waves...Back-barrier and Estuarine - Coastal System Change at Fire Island, New York
Regional-scale modeling forecasts how atmospheric forcing and oceanographic circulation influence estuarine circulation and water levels, sediment transport, and wetland change.Oceanside Beaches and Dunes - Coastal System Change at Fire Island, New York
Oceanfront research at Fire Island, New York, is primarily focused on understanding the long- and short-term behavior of the ocean-facing terrestrial barrier island system, including human influences. The USGS has had ongoing research activities on Fire Island since the late 1990s, providing science to help inform management decisions. Recent efforts include monitoring the response to and recovery...Open Ocean/Marine - Coastal System Change at Fire Island, New York
Geophysical mapping and research have demonstrated that the seabed on the inner continental shelf has a variety of shapes which are linked to long-term evolution of the barrier island. Regional-scale modeling forecasts how atmospheric forcing and oceanographic circulation case sand, gravel, and other materials to be transported by tides, winds, waves, fresh water fluxes, and density variations.Nearshore - Coastal System Change at Fire Island, New York
The nearshore is the submerged portion of the shoreface between the inner shelf and the shoreline and includes the surf zone, where waves break. Along with beaches and dunes, nearshore morphology and geology adjusts to changes in waves, sediment supply, human alterations, and sea level rise. By measuring nearshore morphologic and geologic variations, we can understand how quickly beaches and dunes... - Publications
Below are publications associated with this project.
Decoupling processes and scales of shoreline morphodynamics
Behavior of coastal systems on time scales ranging from single storm events to years and decades is controlled by both small-scale sediment transport processes and large-scale geologic, oceanographic, and morphologic processes. Improved understanding of coastal behavior at multiple time scales is required for refining models that predict potential erosion hazards and for coastal management planninAuthorsCheryl J. Hapke, Nathaniel G. Plant, Rachel E. Henderson, William C. Schwab, Timothy R. NelsonApplication of Bayesian Networks to hindcast barrier island morphodynamics
Prediction of coastal vulnerability is of increasing concern to policy makers, coastal managers and other stakeholders. Coastal regions and barrier islands along the Atlantic and Gulf coasts are subject to frequent, large storms, whose waves and storm surge can dramatically alter beach morphology, threaten infrastructure, and impact local economies. Given that precise forecasts of regional hazardsAuthorsKathleen E. Wilson, Peter N. Adams, Cheryl J. Hapke, Erika E. Lentz, Owen T. BrennerImproving understanding of near-term barrier island evolution through multi-decadal assessment of morphologic change
Observed morphodynamic changes over multiple decades were coupled with storm-driven run-up characteristics at Fire Island, New York, to explore the influence of wave processes relative to the impacts of other coastal change drivers on the near-term evolution of the barrier island. Historical topography was generated from digital stereo-photogrammetry and compared with more recent lidar surveys toAuthorsErika E. Lentz, Cheryl J. Hapke, Hilary F. Stockdon, Rachel E. HehreQuantifying anthropogenically driven morphologic changes on a barrier island: Fire Island National Seashore, New York
Beach scraping, beach replenishment, and the presence of moderate development have altered the morphology of the dune–beach system at Fire Island National Seashore, located on a barrier island on the south coast of Long Island, New York. Seventeen communities are interspersed with sections of natural, nonmodified land within the park boundary. Beach width, dune elevation change, volume change, andAuthorsMeredith G. Kratzmann, Cheryl J. HapkeInner shelf morphologic controls on the dynamics of the beach and bar system, Fire Island, New York
The mechanism of sediment exchange between offshore sand ridges and the beach at Fire Island, New York is largely unknown. However, recent evidence from repeat nearshore bathymetry surveys, coupled with the complex but consistent bar morphology and patterns of shoreline change demonstrate that there is a feedback occurring between the regional geologic framework and modern processes. Analysis of bAuthorsCheryl J. Hapke, William C. Schwab, Paul T. Gayes, Clay McCoy, Richard Viso, Erika E. LentzGeologic framework influences on the geomorphology of an anthropogenically modified barrier island: Assessment of dune/beach changes at Fire Island, New York
Antecedent geology plays a crucial role in determining the inner-shelf, nearshore, and onshore geomorphology observed in coastal systems. However, the influence of the geologic framework on a system is difficult to extract when evaluating responses to changes due to storms and anthropogenic modifications, and few studies have quantified the potential for these influences in dune/beach environmentsAuthorsErika Lentz, Cheryl HapkeA review of sediment budget imbalances along Fire Island, New York: Can nearshore geologic framework and patterns of shoreline change explain the deficit?
Sediment budget analyses conducted for annual to decadal timescales report variable magnitudes of littoral transport along the south shore of Long Island, New York. It is well documented that the primary transport component is directed alongshore from east to west, but relatively little information has been reported concerning the directions or magnitudes of cross-shore components. Our review of bAuthorsCheryl J. Hapke, Erika E. Lentz, Paul T. Gayes, Clayton A. McCoy, Rachel E. Henderson, William C. Schwab, S. Jeffress WilliamsInfluence of inner-continental shelf geologic framework on the evolution and behavior of the barrier-island system between Fire Island Inlet and Shinnecock Inlet, Long Island, New York
High-resolution, sea-floor mapping techniques, including sidescan-sonar and subbottom profiling, were used to investigate how the geologic framework of the inner-continental shelf influenced the Holocene evolution and modern behavior of the Fire Island barrier-island system, Long Island, New York. The inner-continental shelf off Long Island is divided into two physiographic provinces by a broad oAuthorsW. C. Schwab, E. R. Thieler, J.R. Allen, D. S. Foster, B. A. Swift, J. F. Denny