Regional-scale modeling forecasts how atmospheric forcing and oceanographic circulation influence estuarine circulation and water levels, sediment transport, and wetland change.
Tides, winds, and waves drive changes in water level, estuarine circulation, and sediment transport. Sediment is eroded and deposited in mainland and back-barrier marshes and wetlands, which results in constantly evolving estuarine morphology. Furthermore, natural or human-mediated changes in inlet and barrier island morphology may alter exchanges between estuaries and the open ocean. The altered exchanges have consequences for light conditions and water quality in the bays. Seagrass beds and marshes provide some protection to surrounding communities via wave attenuation, but wave attack leads to overall marsh landward migration. Using observations and numerical models, the USGS is investigating the influence of changes in barrier island and inlet geomorphology on estuarine circulation, marsh stability, and water levels in Great South Bay.
Estuarine Processes, Hazards, and Ecosystems
Estuaries are dynamic environments where complex interactions between the atmosphere, ocean, watershed, ecosystems, and human infrastructure take place. They serve as valuable ecological habitat and provide numerous ecosystem services.
Below are other science projects associated with this project.
Coastal System Change at Fire Island, New York
Back-barrier and Estuarine - Coastal System Change at Fire Island, New York
Oceanside Beaches and Dunes - Coastal System Change at Fire Island, New York
Open Ocean/Marine - Coastal System Change at Fire Island, New York
Nearshore - Coastal System Change at Fire Island, New York
Below are publications associated with this project.
Observations and a linear model of water level in an interconnected inlet-bay system
Water level response in back-barrier bays unchanged following Hurricane Sandy
- Overview
Regional-scale modeling forecasts how atmospheric forcing and oceanographic circulation influence estuarine circulation and water levels, sediment transport, and wetland change.
Tides, winds, and waves drive changes in water level, estuarine circulation, and sediment transport. Sediment is eroded and deposited in mainland and back-barrier marshes and wetlands, which results in constantly evolving estuarine morphology. Furthermore, natural or human-mediated changes in inlet and barrier island morphology may alter exchanges between estuaries and the open ocean. The altered exchanges have consequences for light conditions and water quality in the bays. Seagrass beds and marshes provide some protection to surrounding communities via wave attenuation, but wave attack leads to overall marsh landward migration. Using observations and numerical models, the USGS is investigating the influence of changes in barrier island and inlet geomorphology on estuarine circulation, marsh stability, and water levels in Great South Bay.
Estuarine Processes, Hazards, and Ecosystems
Estuaries are dynamic environments where complex interactions between the atmosphere, ocean, watershed, ecosystems, and human infrastructure take place. They serve as valuable ecological habitat and provide numerous ecosystem services.
- Science
Below are other science projects associated with this project.
Coastal System Change at Fire Island, New York
Fire Island is a 50-km long barrier island along the south shore of Long Island, New York. The island is comprised of seventeen year-round communities; federal, state, and county parks; and supports distinct ecosystems alongside areas of economic and cultural value. In addition to providing resources to its residents, the barrier island also protects the heavily-populated mainland from storm waves...Back-barrier and Estuarine - Coastal System Change at Fire Island, New York
Regional-scale modeling forecasts how atmospheric forcing and oceanographic circulation influence estuarine circulation and water levels, sediment transport, and wetland change.Oceanside Beaches and Dunes - Coastal System Change at Fire Island, New York
Oceanfront research at Fire Island, New York, is primarily focused on understanding the long- and short-term behavior of the ocean-facing terrestrial barrier island system, including human influences. The USGS has had ongoing research activities on Fire Island since the late 1990s, providing science to help inform management decisions. Recent efforts include monitoring the response to and recovery...Open Ocean/Marine - Coastal System Change at Fire Island, New York
Geophysical mapping and research have demonstrated that the seabed on the inner continental shelf has a variety of shapes which are linked to long-term evolution of the barrier island. Regional-scale modeling forecasts how atmospheric forcing and oceanographic circulation case sand, gravel, and other materials to be transported by tides, winds, waves, fresh water fluxes, and density variations.Nearshore - Coastal System Change at Fire Island, New York
The nearshore is the submerged portion of the shoreface between the inner shelf and the shoreline and includes the surf zone, where waves break. Along with beaches and dunes, nearshore morphology and geology adjusts to changes in waves, sediment supply, human alterations, and sea level rise. By measuring nearshore morphologic and geologic variations, we can understand how quickly beaches and dunes... - Publications
Below are publications associated with this project.
Observations and a linear model of water level in an interconnected inlet-bay system
A system of barrier islands and back-barrier bays occurs along southern Long Island, New York, and in many coastal areas worldwide. Characterizing the bay physical response to water level fluctuations is needed to understand flooding during extreme events and evaluate their relation to geomorphological changes. Offshore sea level is one of the main drivers of water level fluctuations in semienclosAuthorsAlfredo Aretxabaleta, Neil K. Ganju, Bradford Butman, Richard P. SignellWater level response in back-barrier bays unchanged following Hurricane Sandy
On 28–30 October 2012, Hurricane Sandy caused severe flooding along portions of the northeast coast of the United States and cut new inlets across barrier islands in New Jersey and New York. About 30% of the 20 highest daily maximum water levels observed between 2007 and 2013 in Barnegat and Great South Bay occurred in 5 months following Hurricane Sandy. Hurricane Sandy provided a rare opportunityAuthorsAlfredo L. Aretxabaleta, Bradford Butman, Neil K. Ganju