Publications
The Coastal and Marine Hazards and Resources Program publications are listed here. Search by topics and by year.
Filter Total Items: 2189
Large eddy simulation of cross-shore hydrodynamics under random waves in the inner surf and swash zones Large eddy simulation of cross-shore hydrodynamics under random waves in the inner surf and swash zones
A 3D large eddy simulation coupled with a free surface tracking scheme was used to simulate cross-shore hydrodynamics as observed in a large wave flume experiment. The primary objective was to enhance the understanding of wave-backwash interactions and the implications for observed morphodynamics. Two simulation cases were carried out to elucidate key processes of wave-backwash...
Authors
Benjamin Tsai, Tian-Jian Hsu, Seok-Bong Lee, Maria Pontiki, Jack Puleo, Meagan Wengrove
Climate controls on longshore sediment transport and coastal morphology adjacent to engineered inlets Climate controls on longshore sediment transport and coastal morphology adjacent to engineered inlets
Coastal jetties are commonly used throughout the world to stabilize channels and improve navigation through inlets. These engineered structures form artificial boundaries to littoral cells by reducing wave-driven longshore sediment transport across inlet entrances. Consequently, beaches adjacent to engineered inlets are subject to large gradients in longshore transport rates and are...
Authors
Andrew Stevens, Peter Ruggiero, Kai Parker, Sean Vitousek, Guy Gelfenbaum, George Kaminsky
Terrebonne Basin northern Gulf of Mexico, 30 July-28 September 2023 Terrebonne Basin northern Gulf of Mexico, 30 July-28 September 2023
In the summer and fall of 2023, the Gulf of Mexico Deepwater Hydrate Coring Expedition (UT-GOM2-2) drilled, cored, made downhole measurements, and analyzed samples from the seafloor to the base of the gas hydrate stability zone in one location (Site H, WR313) in the Terrebonne basin, deepwater Gulf of Mexico. Analyses of data and samples from the expedition will inform biological...
Authors
Peter Flemings, Carla Thomas, Stephen Phillips, Timothy Collett, Ann Cook, Evan Solomon, Frederick Colwell, Joel Johnson, David Awwiller, Irita Aylward, Athma Bhandari, Donald Brooks, Alejandro Cardona, Michael Casso, Rachel Coyte, Tom Darrah, Marcy Davis, Brandon Dugan, Dan Duncan, John Germaine, Melanie Holland, Jesse Houghton, N. Mills, Michael Mimitz, Daniel Minarich, Yuki Morono, Zachary Murphy, Joshua O’Connell, Ethan Petrou, Tom Pettigrew, John Pohlman, Alexey Portnov, Marcie Purkey Phillips, Thomas Redd, Derek Sawyer, Peter Schultheiss, Kelly Shannon, Camille Sullivan, Cathal Small, Kayla Tozier, Man-Yin Tsang, Camila Van Der Maal, William F. Waite, Taylor Walton
Insights on gas hydrate formation and growth within an interbedded sand reservoir from well logging at the Qiongdongnan Basin, South China Sea Insights on gas hydrate formation and growth within an interbedded sand reservoir from well logging at the Qiongdongnan Basin, South China Sea
Although variable well log resolution and its control on saturation estimation has been studied, it has not been directly applied to a specific location to explore the nature of gas hydrate within a sand reservoir. We applied in-situ measurements of resistivities, neutron porosity, and gamma ray at two sites in the Qiongdongnan Basin, South China Sea (QDN-W05–2021 and QDN-W08–2021) to...
Authors
Dongju Kang, Zijian Zhang, Jing’an Lu, Stephen Phillips, Jinqiang Liang, Wei Deng, Chao Zhong, Dajiang Meng
Shifting sands: The influence of coral reefs on shoreline erosion from short-term storm protection to long-term disequilibrium Shifting sands: The influence of coral reefs on shoreline erosion from short-term storm protection to long-term disequilibrium
Climate change is exacerbating shoreline erosion and flooding, posing significant risks to coastal communities. Although traditional coastal defenses such as seawalls, dykes, and breakwaters offer protection from these hazards, their high environmental and economic costs are driving interest in cost-competitive nature-based solutions. Coral reef restoration is a nature-based solution...
Authors
Stephan Bitterwolf, Borja Reguero, Curt Storlazzi, Michael Beck
Wave runup and total water level observations from time series imagery at several sites with varying nearshore morphologies Wave runup and total water level observations from time series imagery at several sites with varying nearshore morphologies
Coastal imaging systems have been developed to measure wave runup and total water level (TWL) at the shoreline, which is a key metric for assessing coastal flooding and erosion. However, extracting quantitative measurements from coastal images has typically been done through the laborious task of hand-digitization of wave runup timestacks. Timestacks are images created by sampling a...
Authors
Mark Buckley, Daniel Buscombe, Justin Birchler, Margaret Palmsten, Eric Swanson, Jenna A. Brown, Michael Itzkin, Curt Storlazzi, Shawn Harrison
Post-glacial stratigraphy and late Holocene record of great Cascadia earthquakes in Ozette Lake, Washington, USA Post-glacial stratigraphy and late Holocene record of great Cascadia earthquakes in Ozette Lake, Washington, USA
Ozette Lake is an ~100-m-deep coastal lake located along the outer coast of the Olympic Peninsula (Washington, USA); it is situated above the locked portion of the northern Cascadia megathrust but also relatively isolated from active crustal faults and intraslab earthquakes. Here we present a suite of geophysical and geological evidence for earthquake-triggered mass transport deposits...
Authors
Daniel Brothers, Brian Sherrod, Drake Singleton, Jason Padgett, Jenna Hill, Andrew C. Ritchie, Jared W. Kluesner, Peter Dartnell
Remote sensing large-wood storage downstream of reservoirs during and after dam removal: Elwha River, Washington, USA Remote sensing large-wood storage downstream of reservoirs during and after dam removal: Elwha River, Washington, USA
Large wood is an integral part of many rivers, often defining river-corridor morphology and habitat, but its occurrence, magnitude, and evolution in a river system are much less well understood than the sedimentary and hydraulic components, and due to methodological limitations, have seldom previously been mapped in substantial detail. We present a new method for this, representing a...
Authors
Daniel D. Buscombe, Jonathan Warrick, Andrew C. Ritchie, Amy East, M. McHenry, Randall McCoy, Amy Foxgrover, E. Wohl
Skill assessment of a total water level and coastal change forecast during the landfall of a hurricane Skill assessment of a total water level and coastal change forecast during the landfall of a hurricane
The Total Water Level and Coastal Change Forecast (TWL&CC Forecast) provides coastal communities with 6-day notice of potential elevated water levels and coastal change (i.e., dune erosion, overwash, or inundation) on sandy beaches that threatens safety, infrastructure, or resources. This continuously operating model provides hourly information for select regions along U.S. Gulf of...
Authors
Justin Birchler, Margaret Palmsten, Kara S. Doran, Sharifa Karwandyar, Joshua Pardun, Elora Oades, Ryan Mulligan, Eli Whitehead-Zimmers
Quantifying the coastal hazard risk reduction benefits of coral reef restoration in the U.S. Virgin Islands Quantifying the coastal hazard risk reduction benefits of coral reef restoration in the U.S. Virgin Islands
Coastal habitat restoration, especially of coral reef ecosystems, can significantly reduce the exposure of coastal communities to natural hazards and, consequently, the risk of wave-driven flooding. Likewise, reef degradation can increase coastal flood risks to people and property. In this study, the valuation of coral reefs in the United States Virgin Islands (USVI), along the coasts of...
Authors
Camila Gaido-Lasserre, Valerie Pietsch McNulty, Curt Storlazzi, Borja Reguero, Denise Perez, Sandra Fogg, Kristen A. Cumming, Jessica Ward, Steve Schill, Celeste Jarvis, Michael Beck
Re-evaluating Marine Isotope Stage 5a paleo-sea-level trends from across the Florida Keys reef tract Re-evaluating Marine Isotope Stage 5a paleo-sea-level trends from across the Florida Keys reef tract
Unraveling how Global Mean Sea Level (GMSL) fluctuated during past warm periods can improve our understanding of linkages between sea-level fluctuations, orbital forcing, and ice-sheet dynamics. Current estimates of GMSL for Marine Isotope Stages (MIS) 5a and 5c — two warm intervals following the relatively well-documented MIS 5e — contain meters of uncertainty and fewer data due to...
Authors
Scarlette Hsia, Lauren Toth, Richard Mortlock, Charles Kerans
Reversal in estuarine sand supply driven by Holocene sea level rise: A model for sand transport in large structural estuaries, San Francisco Bay, California, USA Reversal in estuarine sand supply driven by Holocene sea level rise: A model for sand transport in large structural estuaries, San Francisco Bay, California, USA
Reversal in estuarine sand supply driven by Holocene sea level rise: A model for sand transport in large structural estuaries, San Francisco Bay, California, USA
Authors
M.A. Malkowski, Z.T. Sickmann, Theresa Fregoso, Lester McKee, D. Stockli, Bruce E. Jaffe