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Publications

Scientific reports, journal articles, and information products produced by USGS Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center scientists.

Filter Total Items: 1420

The influence of neap-spring tidal variation and wave energy on sediment flux in salt marsh tidal creeks The influence of neap-spring tidal variation and wave energy on sediment flux in salt marsh tidal creeks

Sediment flux in marsh tidal creeks is commonly used to gage sediment supply to marshes. We conducted a field investigation of temporal variability in sediment flux in tidal creeks in the accreting tidal marsh at China Camp State Park adjacent to northern San Francisco Bay. Suspended-sediment concentration (SSC), velocity, and depth were measured near the mouths of two tidal creeks...
Authors
Jessica R. Lacy, Matthew C. Ferner, John C. Callaway

Faunal and stable isotopic analyses of benthic foraminifera from the Southeast Seep on Kimki Ridge offshore southern California, USA Faunal and stable isotopic analyses of benthic foraminifera from the Southeast Seep on Kimki Ridge offshore southern California, USA

We investigated the benthic foraminiferal faunal and stable carbon and oxygen isotopic composition of a 15-cm push core (NA075-092b) obtained on a Telepresence-Enabled cruise to the Southeast Seep on Kimki Ridge offshore southern California. The seep core was taken at a depth of 973 m in the vicinity of a Beggiatoa bacterial mat and vesicomyid clams (Calyptogena) and compared to...
Authors
Mary McGann, James E. Conrad

Three-dimensional modeling of fine sediment transport by waves and currents in a shallow estuary Three-dimensional modeling of fine sediment transport by waves and currents in a shallow estuary

A suspended sediment transport model is implemented in the unstructured‐grid SUNTANS model and applied to study fine‐grained sediment transport in South San Francisco Bay. The model enables calculation of suspension of bottom sediment based on combined forcing of tidal currents and wind waves. We show that accurate results can be obtained by employing two‐size classes which are...
Authors
Yi-Ju Chou, Kurt S. Nelson, Rusty C. Holleman, Oliver B. Fringer, Mark T. Stacey, Jessica R. Lacy, Stephen G. Monismith, Jeffrey R. Koseff

Meteorologic, oceanographic, and geomorphic controls on circulation and residence time in a coral reef-lined embayment: Faga’alu Bay, American Samoa Meteorologic, oceanographic, and geomorphic controls on circulation and residence time in a coral reef-lined embayment: Faga’alu Bay, American Samoa

Water circulation over coral reefs can determine the degree to which reef organisms are exposed to the overlying waters, so understanding circulation is necessary to interpret spatial patterns in coral health. Because coral reefs often have high geomorphic complexity, circulation patterns and the duration of exposure, or “local residence time” of a water parcel, can vary substantially...
Authors
Curt D. Storlazzi, Olivia M. Cheriton, A. M. Messina, Trent W. Biggs

Neotectonics of the Big Sur Bend, San Gregorio‐Hosgri fault system, central California Neotectonics of the Big Sur Bend, San Gregorio‐Hosgri fault system, central California

The right‐lateral San Gregorio‐Hosgri fault system (SGHF) extends mainly offshore for about 400 km along the central California coast and is a major structure in the distributed transform margin of western North America. We mapped a poorly known 64‐km‐long section of the SGHF offshore Big Sur between Piedras Blancas and Point Sur using high‐resolution bathymetry, seismic reflection, and...
Authors
Samuel Y. Johnson, Janet Watt, Stephen Hartwell, Jared W. Kluesner

Slope failure and mass transport processes along the Queen Charlotte Fault Zone, western British Columbia Slope failure and mass transport processes along the Queen Charlotte Fault Zone, western British Columbia

Multibeam echosounder (MBES) images, 3.5 kHz seismic-reflection profiles and piston cores obtained along the southern Queen Charlotte Fault Zone are used to map and date mass-wasting events at this transform margin – a seismically active boundary that separates the Pacific Plate from the North American Plate. Whereas the upper continental slope adjacent to and east (upslope) of the fault...
Authors
H. G. Greene, J. Vaughn Barrie, Daniel S. Brothers, James E. Conrad, Kim Conway, Amy E. East, Randolph J. Enkin, Katherine L. Maier, Maureen A. L. Walton, K .M. M. Rohr

Projected 21st century coastal flooding in the Southern California Bight. Part 1: Development of the third generation CoSMoS model Projected 21st century coastal flooding in the Southern California Bight. Part 1: Development of the third generation CoSMoS model

Due to the effects of climate change over the course of the next century, the combination of rising sea levels, severe storms, and coastal change will threaten the sustainability of coastal communities, development, and ecosystems as we know them today. To clearly identify coastal vulnerabilities and develop appropriate adaptation strategies due to projected increased levels of coastal...
Authors
Andrea C. O'Neill, Li H. Erikson, Patrick L. Barnard, Patrick W. Limber, Sean Vitousek, Jonathan A. Warrick, Amy C. Foxgrover, Jessica Lovering

Slope failure and mass transport processes along the Queen Charlotte Fault, southeastern Alaska Slope failure and mass transport processes along the Queen Charlotte Fault, southeastern Alaska

The Queen Charlotte Fault defines the Pacific–North America transform plate boundary in western Canada and southeastern Alaska for c. 900 km. The entire length of the fault is submerged along a continental margin dominated by Quaternary glacial processes, yet the geomorphology along the margin has never been systematically examined due to the absence of high-resolution seafloor mapping...
Authors
Daniel Brothers, Brian D. Andrews, Maureen A. L. Walton, H. Gary Greene, J. Vaughn Barrie, Nathaniel C. Miller, Uri S. ten Brink, Amy E. East, Peter J. Haeussler, Jared W. Kluesner, James E. Conrad

Spatial variability of sediment transport processes over intratidal and subtidal timescales within a fringing coral reef system Spatial variability of sediment transport processes over intratidal and subtidal timescales within a fringing coral reef system

Sediment produced on fringing coral reefs that is transported along the bed or in suspension affects ecological reef communities as well as the morphological development of the reef, lagoon, and adjacent shoreline. This study quantified the physical process contribution and relative importance of sea‐swell waves, infragravity waves, and mean currents to the spatial and temporal...
Authors
Andrew Pomeroy, Ryan J. Lowe, Marco Ghisalberti, Gundula Winter, Curt D. Storlazzi, Michael V. W. Cuttler

Estimating fluvial discharges coincident with 21st century coastal storms modeled with CoSMoS Estimating fluvial discharges coincident with 21st century coastal storms modeled with CoSMoS

On the open coast, flooding is largely driven by tides, storm surge, waves, and in areas near coastal inlets, the magnitude and co-occurrence of high fluvial discharges. Statistical methods are typically used to estimate the individual probability of coastal storm and fluvial discharge occurrences for use in sophisticated flood hazard models. A challenge arises when considering possible...
Authors
Li H. Erikson, Andrea C. O'Neill, Patrick L. Barnard

The influence of sea level rise on the regional interdependence of coastal infrastructure The influence of sea level rise on the regional interdependence of coastal infrastructure

Sea level rise (SLR) is placing both immediate and long‐term pressures on coastal communities to take protective actions. Projects in the United States, and in many locations throughout the world, generally involve local jurisdictions raising the elevation of shoreline protection elements, with limited or no analysis of the feedback between shoreline management decisions and the impacts...
Authors
Ruo-Quian Wang, Mark T. Stacey, Liv M. Herdman, Patrick L. Barnard, Li H. Erikson

Mechanisms of wave‐driven water level variability on reef‐fringed coastlines Mechanisms of wave‐driven water level variability on reef‐fringed coastlines

Wave‐driven water level variability (and runup at the shoreline) is a significant cause of coastal flooding induced by storms. Wave runup is challenging to predict, particularly along tropical coral reef‐fringed coastlines due to the steep bathymetric profiles and large bottom roughness generated by reef organisms, which can violate assumptions in conventional models applied to open...
Authors
Mark L. Buckley, Ryan J. Lowe, Jeff E. Hansen, Ap R. van Dongeren, Curt D. Storlazzi
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