Publications
The Coastal and Marine Hazards and Resources Program publications are listed here. Search by topics and by year.
Filter Total Items: 2196
National shoreline change—Summary statistics of shoreline change from the 1800s to the 2010s for the coast of California National shoreline change—Summary statistics of shoreline change from the 1800s to the 2010s for the coast of California
Rates of shoreline change have been updated for the open-ocean sandy coastline of California as part of studies conducted by the U.S. Geological Survey. Shorelines from the original assessment (1800s through 1998 or 2002), as well as additional shoreline position data from 2009 to 2011, 2015, and 2016 extracted from light detection and ranging (lidar) data, were used to compute long-term...
Authors
Meredith G. Kratzmann
Wind-wave climate changes and their impacts Wind-wave climate changes and their impacts
Wind-waves have an important role in Earth system dynamics through air–sea interactions and are key drivers of coastal and offshore hydro-morphodynamics that affect communities, ecosystems, infrastructure and operations. In this Review, we outline historical and projected changes in the wind-wave climate over the world’s oceans, and their impacts. Historical trend analysis is challenging...
Authors
Merce Casas-Prat, Mark Hemer, Guillaume Dodet, Joao Morim, Xiaolan Wang, Nobuhito Mori, Ian Young, Li H. Erikson, Bahareh Kamranzad, Prashant Kumar, Melisa Menendez, Justin Stopa, Yang Feng
Major fluvial erosion and a 500-Mt sediment pulse triggered by lava-dam failure, Río Coca, Ecuador Major fluvial erosion and a 500-Mt sediment pulse triggered by lava-dam failure, Río Coca, Ecuador
The failure of a 144-m-high lava-dam waterfall on the Río Coca, Ecuador, in February 2020 initiated a catastrophic watershed reset—regressive erosion upstream and a massive sediment pulse downstream—as the river evolves towards a new equilibrium grade. The evolution of this river corridor after a sudden base-level fall embodies the “complex response” concepts long understood through...
Authors
Pedro D. Barrera Crespo, Pablo Espinoza Giron, Renan Bedoya, Stanford Gibson, Amy E. East, Eddy J. Langendoen, Paul M Boyd
Slowly but surely: Exposure of communities and infrastructure to subsidence on the US east coast Slowly but surely: Exposure of communities and infrastructure to subsidence on the US east coast
Coastal communities are vulnerable to multihazards, which are exacerbated by land subsidence. On the US east coast, the high density of population and assets amplifies the region's exposure to coastal hazards. We utilized measurements of vertical land motion rates obtained from analysis of radar datasets to evaluate the subsidence-hazard exposure to population, assets, and infrastructure...
Authors
Leonard O. Ohenhen, Manoochehr Shirzaei, Patrick L. Barnard
Developing a decision tree model to forecast runup and assess uncertainty in empirical formulations Developing a decision tree model to forecast runup and assess uncertainty in empirical formulations
The coastal zone is a dynamic region that can change rapidly and significantly with respect to the morphology of the beach and incoming wave conditions. Runup forecasts may be improved by adapting a dynamic approach that allows for different runup models to be implemented in response to changes in beach state. Accurately forecasting wave runup is critical to characterize exposure to...
Authors
Michael Itzkin, Margaret L. Palmsten, Mark L. Buckley, Justin J. Birchler, Legna M. Torres-Garcia
A characterization of the deep-sea coral and sponge community along the Oregon Coast using a remotely operated vehicle on the EXPRESS 2022 expedition A characterization of the deep-sea coral and sponge community along the Oregon Coast using a remotely operated vehicle on the EXPRESS 2022 expedition
Deep-sea coral and sponge (DSCS) communities serve as essential fish habitat (EFH) by providing shelter and nursery habitat, increasing diversity, and increasing prey availability (Freese and Wing, 2003; Bright, 2007; Baillon et al., 2012; Henderson et al., 2020). Off the U.S. West Coast, threats to these long-lived, fragile organisms from bottom contact fishing gear, potential offshore...
Authors
Tom Laidig, Diana Watters, Meredith Everett, Nancy G. Prouty, Elizabeth Clarke
Two-dimensional inverse energy cascade in a laboratory surf zone for varying wave directional spread Two-dimensional inverse energy cascade in a laboratory surf zone for varying wave directional spread
Surfzone eddies enhance the dispersion and transport of contaminants, bacteria, and larvae across the nearshore, altering coastal water quality and ecosystem health. During directionally spread wave conditions, vertical vortices (horizontal eddies) are injected near the ends of breaking crests. Energy associated with these eddies may be transferred to larger-scale, low-frequency...
Authors
Christine Baker, Melissa Moulton, C Chris Chickadel, Emma Nuss, Margaret L. Palmsten, Katherine L. Brodie
Bayesian hierarchical modeling for probabilistic estimation of tsunami amplitude from far-field earthquake sources Bayesian hierarchical modeling for probabilistic estimation of tsunami amplitude from far-field earthquake sources
Evaluation of tsunami disaster risk for a coastal region requires reliable estimation of tsunami hazard, for example, wave amplitude close to the shore. Observed tsunami data are scarce and have poor spatial coverage, and for this reason probabilistic tsunami hazard analysis (PTHA) traditionally relies on numerical simulation of “synthetic” tsunami generation and propagation toward the...
Authors
Georgios Boumis, Eric L. Geist, Danhyang Lee
Carbonate chemistry and carbon sequestration driven by inorganic carbon outwelling from mangroves and saltmarshes Carbonate chemistry and carbon sequestration driven by inorganic carbon outwelling from mangroves and saltmarshes
Mangroves and saltmarshes are biogeochemical hotspots storing carbon in sediments and in the ocean following lateral carbon export (outwelling). Coastal seawater pH is modified by both uptake of anthropogenic carbon dioxide and natural biogeochemical processes, e.g., wetland inputs. Here, we investigate how mangroves and saltmarshes influence coastal carbonate chemistry and quantify the
Authors
Gloria Reithmaier, Alex Cabral, Anirban Akhand, Matthew Bogard, Alberto V. Borges, Steven Bouillon, David J. Burdige, Mitchel Call, Nengwang Chen, Xiaogang Chen, Cotovicz, Meagan J. Eagle, Erik Kristensen, Kevin D. Kroeger, Zeyang Lu, Damien Maher, Lucas Perez-Llorens, Raghab Ray, Pierre Taillardat, Joseph Tamborski, Robert C. Upstill-Goddard, Faming Wang, Zhaohui Aleck Wang, Kai Xiao, Yvonne Yau, Isaac Santos
Hydraulic properties of sediments from the GC955 gas hydrate reservoir in the Gulf of Mexico Hydraulic properties of sediments from the GC955 gas hydrate reservoir in the Gulf of Mexico
The economic feasibility of gas production from hydrate deposits is critical for hydrate to become an energy resource. Permeability in hydrate-bearing sediments dictates gas and water flow rates and needs to be accurately evaluated. Published permeability studies of hydrate-bearing sediments mostly quantify vertical permeability; however, the flow is mainly horizontal during gas...
Authors
Imgenur Tepecik, Yumeng Zhao, Yongkoo Seol, Adrian Victor Garcia, William F. Waite, Sheng Dai
Monitoring interdecadal coastal change along dissipative beaches via satellite imagery at regional scale Monitoring interdecadal coastal change along dissipative beaches via satellite imagery at regional scale
Coastal morphological changes can be assessed using shoreline position observations from space. However, satellite-derived waterline (SDW) and shoreline (SDS; SDW corrected for hydrodynamic contributions and outliers) detection methods are subject to several sources of uncertainty and inaccuracy. We extracted high-spatiotemporal-resolution (~50 m-monthly) time series of mean high water...
Authors
Marcan Graffin, Mohsen Taherkhani, Meredith Leung, Sean Vitousek, George Kaminsky, Peter Ruggiero
Pacific coastal and marine science of the U.S. Geological Survey in Santa Cruz, California Pacific coastal and marine science of the U.S. Geological Survey in Santa Cruz, California
Introduction The Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center is one of three U.S. Geological Survey science centers that serve the mission of the Coastal and Marine Hazards and Resources Program, the primary Federal marine geology and physical science research program focused on the Nation’s coastal and marine landscape. Our portfolio of coastal and marine projects in the Pacific Ocean...
Authors
Peter Pearsall