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Scientific reports, journal articles, and information products produced by USGS Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center scientists.

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Chapter 50 Geology and tectonic development of the Amerasia and Canada Basins, Arctic Ocean Chapter 50 Geology and tectonic development of the Amerasia and Canada Basins, Arctic Ocean

Amerasia Basin is the product of two phases of counterclockwise rotational opening about a pole in the lower Mackenzie Valley of NW Canada. Phase 1 opening brought ocean–continent transition crust (serpentinized peridotite?) to near the seafloor of the proto-Amerasia Basin, created detachment on the Eskimo Lakes Fault Zone of the Canadian Arctic margin and thinned the continental crust...
Authors
Arthur Grantz, Patrick E. Hart, Vicki A Childers

The ANTOSTRAT legacy: Science collaboration and international transparency in potential marine mineral resource exploitation of Antarctica The ANTOSTRAT legacy: Science collaboration and international transparency in potential marine mineral resource exploitation of Antarctica

The Antarctic Offshore Stratigraphy project (ANTOSTRAT; 1989–2002) was an extremely successful collaboration in international marine geological science that also lifted the perceived “veil of secrecy” from studies of potential exploitation of Antarctic marine mineral resources. The project laid the groundwork for circum-Antarctic seismic, drilling, and rock coring programs designed to...
Authors
Alan Cooper, Peter Barker, Peter Barrett, John Behrendt, Giuliano Brancolini, Jonathan R. Childs, Carlota Escutia, Wilfried Jokat, Yngve Kristoffersen, German Leitchenkov, Howard Stagg, Manabu Tanahashi, Nigel Wardell, Peter Webb

Rising sea level may cause decline of fringing coral reefs Rising sea level may cause decline of fringing coral reefs

Coral reefs are major marine ecosystems and critical resources for marine diversity and fisheries. These ecosystems are widely recognized to be at risk from a number of stressors, and added to those in the past several decades is climate change due to anthropogenically driven increases in atmospheric concentrations of greenhouse gases. Most threatening to most coral reefs are elevated...
Authors
Michael E. Field, Andrea S. Ogston, Curt D. Storlazzi

Growth rate and age distribution of deep-sea black corals in the Gulf of Mexico Growth rate and age distribution of deep-sea black corals in the Gulf of Mexico

Black corals (order Antipatharia) are important long-lived, habitat-forming, sessile, benthic suspension feeders that are found in all oceans and are usually found in water depths greater than 30 m. Deep-water black corals are some of the slowest-growing, longest-lived deep-sea corals known. Previous age dating of a limited number of black coral samples in the Gulf of Mexico focused on
Authors
N.G. Prouty, E.B. Roark, N.A. Buster, Steve W. Ross

Sediment dynamics and the burial and exhumation of bedrock reefs along an emergent coastline as elucidated by repetitive sonar surveys: Northern Monterey Bay, CA Sediment dynamics and the burial and exhumation of bedrock reefs along an emergent coastline as elucidated by repetitive sonar surveys: Northern Monterey Bay, CA

Two high-resolution bathymetric and acoustic backscatter sonar surveys were conducted along the energetic emergent inner shelf of northern Monterey Bay, CA, USA, in the fall of 2005 and the spring of 2006 to determine the impact of winter storm waves, beach erosion, and river floods on biologically-important siliclastic bedrock reef habitats. The surveys extended from water depths of 4 m...
Authors
C. D. Storlazzi, T.A. Fregoso, N.E. Golden, D.P. Finlayson

The impact of the 2009-10 El Niño Modoki on U.S. West Coast beaches The impact of the 2009-10 El Niño Modoki on U.S. West Coast beaches

High-resolution beach morphology data collected along much of the U.S. West Coast are synthesized to evaluate the coastal impacts of the 2009–10 El Niño. Coastal change observations were collected as part of five beach monitoring programs that span between 5 and 13 years in duration. In California, regional wave and water level data show that the environmental forcing during the 2009–10...
Authors
Patrick L. Barnard, Jonathan Allan, Jeff E. Hansen, George M. Kaminsky, Peter Ruggiero, André Doria

Recent storm and tsunami coarse-clast deposit characteristics, southeast Hawai'i Recent storm and tsunami coarse-clast deposit characteristics, southeast Hawai'i

Deposits formed by extreme waves can be useful in elucidating the type and characteristics of the depositional event. The study area on the southeast coast of the island of Hawaiʻi is characterized by the presence of geologically young basalts of known age that are mantled by recent wave-derived sedimentary deposits. The area has been impacted by large swells, storms and tsunamis over...
Authors
B. M. Richmond, Sebastian Watt, M. Buckley, B. E. Jaffe, G. Gelfenbaum, R.A. Morton

Anthropogenic influences on shoreline and nearshore evolution in the San Francisco Bay coastal system Anthropogenic influences on shoreline and nearshore evolution in the San Francisco Bay coastal system

Analysis of four historical bathymetric surveys over a 132-year period has revealed significant changes to the morphology of the San Francisco Bar, an ebb-tidal delta at the mouth of San Francisco Bay estuary. From 1873 to 2005 the San Francisco Bar vertically-eroded an average of 80 cm over a 125 km2 area, which equates to a total volume loss of 100 ± 52 million m3 of fine- to coarse...
Authors
K.L. Dallas, P.L. Barnard

Petroleum prospectivity of the Canada Basin, Arctic Ocean Petroleum prospectivity of the Canada Basin, Arctic Ocean

Reconnaissance seismic reflection data indicate that Canada Basin is a >700,000 sq. km. remnant of the Amerasia Basin of the Arctic Ocean that lies south of the Alpha-Mendeleev Large Igneous Province, which was constructed across the northern part of the Amerasia Basin between about 127 and 89–83.5 Ma. Canada Basin was filled by Early Jurassic to Holocene detritus from the Beaufort...
Authors
Arthur Grantz, Patrick E. Hart

Nearshore Tsunami Inundation Model Validation: Toward Sediment Transport Applications Nearshore Tsunami Inundation Model Validation: Toward Sediment Transport Applications

Model predictions from a numerical model, Delft3D, based on the nonlinear shallow water equations are compared with analytical results and laboratory observations from seven tsunami-like benchmark experiments, and with field observations from the 26 December 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami. The model accurately predicts the magnitude and timing of the measured water levels and flow velocities...
Authors
Alex Apotsos, Mark Buckley, Guy Gelfenbaum, Bruce Jaffe, Deepak Vatvani

The influence of current speed and vegetation density on flow structure in two macrotidal eelgrass canopies The influence of current speed and vegetation density on flow structure in two macrotidal eelgrass canopies

The influence of eelgrass (Zostera marina) on near-bed currents, turbulence, and drag was investigated at three sites in two eelgrass canopies of differing density and at one unvegetated site in the San Juan archipelago of Puget Sound, Washington, USA. Eelgrass blade length exceeded 1 m. Velocity profiles up to 1.5 m above the sea floor were collected over a spring-neap tidal cycle with...
Authors
Jessica R. Lacy, Sandy Wyllie-Echeverria

Wave climate and trends along the eastern Chukchi Arctic Alaska coast Wave climate and trends along the eastern Chukchi Arctic Alaska coast

Due in large part to the difficulty of obtaining measurements in the Arctic, little is known about the wave climate along the coast of Arctic Alaska. In this study, numerical model simulations encompassing 40 years of wave hind-casts were used to assess mean and extreme wave conditions. Results indicate that the wave climate was strongly modulated by large-scale atmospheric circulation...
Authors
L. H. Erikson, C. D. Storlazzi, R. E. Jensen
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