Coastal Model Applications and Field Measurements

Science Center Objects

Numerical models are used by scientists, engineers, coastal managers, and the public to understand and predict processes in the coastal ocean. This project supports the development and application of open-source coastal models and has several objectives: 1) improve the code of numerical sediment-transport models by implementing new or improved algorithms; 2) obtain measurements of coastal ocean processes to test and verify models; 3) develop new instruments or analysis techniques to make these measurements; and 4) develop software tools and standards to facilitate analysis, comparison, and visualization of observations and models. Study sites are selected for characteristics needed for model development and testing, as well as to address issues of national or regional importance.

 This project houses several components, including: model code development; advances in instrumentation, field measurements, and analysis; development of standards and software tools for analysis of model output and comparison with observations; and model applications intended to test model capabilities, capitalize on unique partnering opportunities or field experiments, or address problems of societal relevance that are urgent and/or require new modeling capabilities.

Numerical ocean models are used by scientists, engineers, and coastal managers to understand and predict the effects of physical, biological, and chemical processes in the coastal ocean. This project has four objectives: 1) improve the code of open-source numerical models by implementing new or improved algorithms for processes related to sediment transport; 2) provide measurements of coastal ocean processes to test and verify models; and 3) develop new instruments or analysis techniques to make these measurements; and 4) develop software tools and standards to facilitate incorporation of observations with models and comparison among models. The overall objective is to support development of open-source models that are useful for addressing important problems related to natural hazards and ecosystem change in the coastal ocean.

Rotary side scan images at a grain-size boundary

Rotary side scan images at a grain-size boundary at a 12-m deep site south of Martha’s Vineyard. Gray images are fan-beam sonar backscatter amplitudes, and colored insets are bathymetry, with 0.02-m contours. Both images were made at the same location under different wave conditions, as indicated in the bottom panel, where ubr is wave-orbital velocity  (m/s) and wave dir. (degrees True) is wave propagation direction (relative to north).