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Publications

Scientific reports, journal articles, and information products produced by USGS Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center scientists.

Filter Total Items: 1414

Reinterpreting the Bruun Rule in the context of equilibrium shoreline models Reinterpreting the Bruun Rule in the context of equilibrium shoreline models

Long-term (>decades) coastal recession due to sea-level rise (SLR) has been estimated using the Bruun Rule for nearly six decades. Equilibrium-based shoreline models have been shown to skillfully predict short-term wave-driven shoreline change on time scales of hours to decades. Both the Bruun Rule and equilibrium shoreline models rely on the equilibrium beach theory, which states that...
Authors
Maurizio D’Anna, Deborah Idier, Bruno Castelle, Sean Vitousek, Goneri Le Cozannet

Watershed sediment yield following the 2018 Carr Fire, Whiskeytown National Recreation Area, northern California Watershed sediment yield following the 2018 Carr Fire, Whiskeytown National Recreation Area, northern California

Wildfire risk has increased in recent decades over many regions, due to warming climate and other factors. Increased sediment export from recently burned landscapes can jeopardize downstream infrastructure and water resources, but physical landscape response to fire has not been quantified for some at-risk areas, including much of northern California, USA. We measured sediment yield from...
Authors
Amy East, Joshua Logan, Peter Dartnell, Oren Lieber-Kotz, David Cavagnaro, Scott W. McCoy, Donald Lindsay

Labeling poststorm coastal imagery for machine learning: Measurement of interrater agreement Labeling poststorm coastal imagery for machine learning: Measurement of interrater agreement

Classifying images using supervised machine learning (ML) relies on labeled training data—classes or text descriptions, for example, associated with each image. Data-driven models are only as good as the data used for training, and this points to the importance of high-quality labeled data for developing a ML model that has predictive skill. Labeling data is typically a time-consuming...
Authors
Evan Goldstein, Daniel D. Buscombe, Eli Lazarus, Somya Mohanty, Shah Rafique, K Anarde, Andrew Ashton, Tomas Beuzen, Katherine Castagno, Nicholas Cohn, Matthew Conlin, Ashley Ellenson, Megan Gillen, Paige Hovenga, Jin-Si Over, Rose V. Palermo, Katherine Ratlif, Ian Reeves, Lily Sanborn, Jessamin Straub, Luke Taylor, Elizabeth Wallace, Jonathan Warrick, Phillipe Alan Wernette, Hannah Williams

Hydrological control shift from river level to rainfall in the reactivated Guobu slope besides the Laxiwa hydropower station in China Hydrological control shift from river level to rainfall in the reactivated Guobu slope besides the Laxiwa hydropower station in China

Landslides are common geohazards associated with natural drivers such as precipitation, land degradation, toe erosion by rivers and wave attack, and ground shaking. On the other hand, human alterations such as inundation by water impoundment or rapid drawdown may also destabilize the surrounding slopes. The Guobu slope is an ancient rockslide on the banks of the Laxiwa hydropower station...
Authors
Xuguo Shi, Xie Hu, Nicholas Sitar, Robert Kayen, Shengwen Qi, Houjun Jiang, Xudong Wang

Flooding duration and volume more important than peak discharge in explaining 18 years of gravel–cobble river change Flooding duration and volume more important than peak discharge in explaining 18 years of gravel–cobble river change

Floods play a critical role in geomorphic change, but whether peak magnitude, duration, volume, or frequency determines the resulting magnitude of erosion and deposition is a question often proposed in geomorphic effectiveness studies. This study investigated that question using digital elevation model differencing to compare and contrast three hydrologically distinct epochs of...
Authors
Arielle Gervasi, Gregory Pasternack, Amy East

Rebounds, regresses, and recovery: A 15-year study of the coral reef community at Pila‘a, Kaua‘i after decades of natural and anthropogenic stress events Rebounds, regresses, and recovery: A 15-year study of the coral reef community at Pila‘a, Kaua‘i after decades of natural and anthropogenic stress events

Pila‘a reef on the north shore of Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i was subjected to a major flood event in 2001 that deposited extensive sediment on the reef flat, resulting in high coral mortality. To document potential recovery, this study replicated benthic and sediment surveys conducted immediately following the event and 15 years later. Coral cores were analyzed to determine coral growth rates and...
Authors
Ku'ulei S. Rodgers, A. Richards Dona, Y. Stender, A. Tsang, J. Han, Rebecca Weible, Nancy Prouty, Curt Storlazzi, Andrew Graham

Assessment of barrier island morphological change in northern Alaska Assessment of barrier island morphological change in northern Alaska

Arctic barriers islands are highly dynamic features influenced by a variety of oceanographic, geologic, and environmental factors. Many Alaskan barrier islands and spits serve as habitat and protection for native species, as well as shelter the coast from waves and storms that cause flooding and degradation of coastal villages. This study summarizes changes to barrier morphology in time...
Authors
Anna Hamilton, Ann Gibbs, Li Erikson, Anita C. Engelstad

Drivers of extreme water levels in a large, urban, high-energy coastal estuary – A case study of the San Francisco Bay Drivers of extreme water levels in a large, urban, high-energy coastal estuary – A case study of the San Francisco Bay

Reliable and long-term hindcast data of water levels are essential in quantifying return period and values of extreme water levels. In order to inform design decisions on a local flood control district level, process-based numerical modeling has proven an essential tool to provide the needed temporal and spatial coverage for different extreme value analysis methods. To determine the...
Authors
Cornelis Nederhoff, Rohin Saleh, Babak Tehranirad, Liv Herdman, Li Erikson, Patrick Barnard, Mick Van der Wegen

Cohesive sediment modeling in a shallow estuary: Model and environmental implications of sediment parameter variation Cohesive sediment modeling in a shallow estuary: Model and environmental implications of sediment parameter variation

Numerical models of sediment transport in estuarine systems rely on parameter values that are often poorly constrained and can vary on timescales relevant to model processes. The selection of parameter values can affect the accuracy of model predictions, while environmental variation of these parameters can impact the temporal and spatial ranges of sediment fluxes, erosion, and...
Authors
Rachel Allen, Jessica Lacy, Andrew Stevens

Miocene phosphatization of rocks from the summit of Rio Grande Rise, Southwest Atlantic Ocean Miocene phosphatization of rocks from the summit of Rio Grande Rise, Southwest Atlantic Ocean

Marine phosphorites are an important part of the oceanic phosphorus cycle and are related to the effects of long-term global climate changes. We use petrography, mineralogy, rare earth elements contents, and 87Sr/86Sr-determined carbonate fluorapatite (CFA) and calcite ages to investigate the paragenesis and history of phosphatization of carbonate sediments, limestones, ferromanganese...
Authors
Mariana Benites, James Hein, Kira Mizell, Luigi Jovane

Multiple climate change-driven tipping points for coastal systems Multiple climate change-driven tipping points for coastal systems

As the climate evolves over the next century, the interaction of accelerating sea level rise (SLR) and storms, combined with confining development and infrastructure, will place greater stresses on physical, ecological, and human systems along the ocean-land margin. Many of these valued coastal systems could reach “tipping points,” at which hazard exposure substantially increases and...
Authors
Patrick Barnard, Jenifer Dugan, Henry Page, Nathan Wood, Juliette A. Finzi Hart, Daniel Cayan, Li Erikson, David A. Hubbard, Monique Myers, John Melack, Samuel Iacobellis

Extent of impact of deep-sea nodule mining midwater plumes is influenced by sediment loading, turbulence and thresholds Extent of impact of deep-sea nodule mining midwater plumes is influenced by sediment loading, turbulence and thresholds

Deep-sea polymetallic nodule mining research activity has substantially increased in recent years, but the expected level of environmental impact is still being established. One environmental concern is the discharge of a sediment plume into the midwater column. We performed a dedicated field study using sediment from the Clarion Clipperton Fracture Zone. The plume was monitored and...
Authors
Carlos Munoz-Royo, Thomas Peacock, Matthew Alford, Jerome Smith, Arnaud Le Boyer, Chinmay Kulkarni, Pierre Lermusiaux, Patrick Haley, C Mirabito, Dayang Wang, Eric Adams, Raphael Ouillon, Alexander Breugem, Boudewijn Decrop, Thijs Lanckreit, Rohit Supekar, Andrew Rzeznik, Amy Gartman, Se-Jong Ju
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