Sean Vitousek
Research Oceanographer, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center
Science and Products
DUNEX Modeling Waves, Water Levels, Sediment Transport, and Shoreline Change
Large, collaborative field experiments such as DUNEX leverage observations of the coastal ocean made by multiple academic, agency, and NGO teams, providing the opportunity to grasp a broader picture of the forces responsible for coastal change. Despite deployment of many instruments, it’s impossible to measure everything, everywhere, at all times. Numerical models that represent the physical...
CoSMoS-COAST
CoSMoS-COAST is a USGS-developed, large-scale coastal change prediction model. It seeks to model coastal change due to a variety of oceanographic and terrestrial processes across a multitude of spatiotemporal scales (e.g., local to national-scale).
Satellite-derived shorelines for the U.S. states of Oregon and Washington for the period 1984-2023, obtained using CoastSat Satellite-derived shorelines for the U.S. states of Oregon and Washington for the period 1984-2023, obtained using CoastSat
This dataset contains shoreline positions derived from available Landsat satellite imagery for two states (Oregon, and Washington) along the U.S. Pacific coast for the time period 1984 to 2023. An open-source toolbox, CoastSat (Vos and others, 2019a and 2019b), was used to classify coastal Landsat imagery and detect shorelines at the sub-pixel scale. Resulting shorelines are presented in...
Satellite-derived shorelines for Romania Black Sea coast for the period 1984 - 2023 using Landsat Satellite-derived shorelines for Romania Black Sea coast for the period 1984 - 2023 using Landsat
This dataset contains shoreline positions derived from available Landsat satellite imagery (1984 to 2023) for the Romanian Black Sea coast. The shoreline positions were derived on transects 50 m apart using the open-source toolbox, CoastSat described in Vos and others, 2019a and 2019b. Landsat coastal imagery was classified, and shoreline positions were detected at the sub-pixel scale...
Modeled nearshore wave parameters along the Columbia River littoral cell, Washington and Oregon, 2010-2023 Modeled nearshore wave parameters along the Columbia River littoral cell, Washington and Oregon, 2010-2023
Model hindcasts were performed with a spectral wave model to quantify nearshore wave parameters along the Columbia River littoral cell, Oregon and Washington. The spectral wave model SWAN was used to simulate nearshore wave dynamics at 1-hr intervals along the coast between 2014 and 2023. A second hindcast simulated wave dynamics between 2010 and 2011. This data release describes the...
Satellite-derived shorelines for the U.S. Gulf Coast states of Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, and Florida for the period 1984-2022, obtained using CoastSat Satellite-derived shorelines for the U.S. Gulf Coast states of Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, and Florida for the period 1984-2022, obtained using CoastSat
This dataset contains shoreline positions derived from available Landsat satellite imagery for four states (Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, and Florida) along the U.S. Gulf coast for the time period 1984 to 2022. An open-source toolbox, CoastSat (Vos and others, 2019a and 2019b), was used to classify coastal Landsat imagery and detect shorelines at the sub-pixel scale. Resulting...
Projections of shoreline change for California due to 21st century sea-level rise Projections of shoreline change for California due to 21st century sea-level rise
This dataset contains projections of shoreline change and uncertainty bands across California for future scenarios of sea-level rise (SLR). Projections were made using the Coastal Storm Modeling System - Coastal One-line Assimilated Simulation Tool (CoSMoS-COAST), a numerical model run in an ensemble forced with global-to-local nested wave models and assimilated with satellite-derived...
Future coastal hazards along the U.S. Atlantic coast Future coastal hazards along the U.S. Atlantic coast
This product consists of several datasets that map future coastal flooding and erosion hazards due to sea level rise (SLR) and storms for three States (Florida, Georgia, and Virginia) along the Atlantic coast of the United States. The SLR scenarios encompass a plausible range of projections by 2100 based on the best available science and with enough resolution to support a suite of...
Future coastal hazards along the U.S. North and South Carolina coasts Future coastal hazards along the U.S. North and South Carolina coasts
This product consists of several datasets that map future coastal flooding and erosion hazards due to sea level rise (SLR) and storms along the North and South Carolina coast. The SLR scenarios encompass a plausible range of projections by 2100 based on the best available, science and with enough resolution to support a suite of different planning horizons. The storm scenarios are...
Coastal Storm Modeling System (CoSMoS) for Northern California 3.2 (ver. 1g, April 2025) Coastal Storm Modeling System (CoSMoS) for Northern California 3.2 (ver. 1g, April 2025)
This dataset includes coastal flood and associated hazard projections for Humboldt County from Coastal Storm Modeling System (CoSMoS). CoSMoS makes detailed predictions (meter-scale) over large geographic scales (100s of kilometers) of storm-induced coastal flooding and erosion for both current and future sea-level rise (SLR) scenarios. CoSMoS 3.2 for Northern California shows...
Coastal Storm Modeling System (CoSMoS) for Southern California, v3.0, Phase 2 Coastal Storm Modeling System (CoSMoS) for Southern California, v3.0, Phase 2
The Coastal Storm Modeling System (CoSMoS) makes detailed predictions (meter-scale) over large geographic scales (100s of kilometers) of storm-induced coastal flooding and erosion for both current and future sea-level-rise scenarios, as well as long-term shoreline change and cliff retreat. Resulting projections for future climate scenarios (sea-level rise and storms) provide emergency...
Filter Total Items: 43
Are equilibrium shoreline models just convolutions? Are equilibrium shoreline models just convolutions?
Yes. Equilibrium shoreline models, which simulate wave-driven cross-shore erosion and accretion, are mathematically equivalent to a discrete convolution (i.e., a weighted, moving average) of a time series of wave-forcing conditions with a parameterized memory-decay kernel function. The direct equivalence between equilibrium shoreline models and convolutions reveals key theoretical...
Authors
Sean Vitousek, Daniel Buscombe, Eduardo Gomez-de la Peña, Kit Calcraft, Mark Alan Lundine, Kristen D. Splinter, Giovanni Coco, Patrick L. Barnard
Waterline responses to climate forcing along the North American West Coast Waterline responses to climate forcing along the North American West Coast
Understanding waterline variability at seasonal to interannual timescales is crucial for predicting coastal responses to climate forcing. However, relationships between large-scale climate variability and coastal morphodynamics remain underexplored beyond intensively monitored sites. This study leverages a newly developed 25-year (1997–2022) satellite-derived waterline dataset along the...
Authors
Marcan Graffin, Rafael Almar, Erwin W.J. Bergsma, Julien Boucharel, Sean Vitousek, Mohsen Taherkhani, Peter Ruggiero
Observations reveal changing coastal storm extremes around the United States Observations reveal changing coastal storm extremes around the United States
Understanding extreme storm surge events that threaten low-lying coastal communities is key to effective flood mitigation/adaptation measures. However, observational estimates are sparse and highly uncertain along most coastal regions with a lack of observational evidence about long-term underlying trends and their contribution to overall extreme sea-level changes. Here, using a...
Authors
Joao Morim, Thomas Wahl, D.J . Rasmussen, Francisco Calafat, Sean Vitousek, Soenke Dangendorf, Robert Kopp, Michael Oppenheimer
Evaluating five shoreline change models against 40 years of field survey data at an embayed sandy beach Evaluating five shoreline change models against 40 years of field survey data at an embayed sandy beach
Robust and reliable models are needed to understand how coastlines will evolve over the coming decades, driven by both natural variability and climate change. This study evaluated how accurately five popular ‘reduced-complexity’ models replicate multi-decadal shoreline change at Narrabeen-Collaroy Beach, a sandy embayment in Sydney, Australia. Measured shoreline positions derived from...
Authors
Oxana Repina, Rafael C. Carvalho, Giovanni Coco, Jose Antolínez, Iñaki de Santiago, Mitchell D. Harley, Camilo Jaramillo, Kristen D. Splinter, Sean Vitousek, Colin D. Woodroffe
Wave driven cross shore and alongshore transport reveal more extreme projections of shoreline change in island environments Wave driven cross shore and alongshore transport reveal more extreme projections of shoreline change in island environments
Coastal erosion, intensified by sea level rise, poses significant threats to coastal communities in Hawaiʻi and similar island communities. This study projects long-term shoreline change on the Hawaiian Island of O‘ahu using the data-assimilated CoSMoS-COAST shoreline change model. CoSMoS-COAST models four key shoreline processes: (1) Alongshore transport, (2) Recession due to sea level...
Authors
Richelle Moskvichev, Anna Mikkelsen, Tiffany Anderson, Sean Vitousek, Joel Nicolow, Charles Fletcher
Shoreline seasonality of California’s beaches Shoreline seasonality of California’s beaches
We report on remote sensing techniques developed to characterize seasonal shoreline cycles from satellite-derived shoreline measurements. These techniques are applied to 22-yr of shoreline measurements for over 777 km of beach along California's 1,700-km coast, for which the general understanding is that shorelines exhibit winter-narrow and summer-recovery seasonality. We find that...
Authors
Jonathan Warrick, Daniel D. Buscombe, Kilian Vos, Hannah Kenyon, Andrew C. Ritchie, Mitchell D. Harley, Catherine Nicole Janda, Jess L'Heureux, Sean Vitousek
Projections of multiple climate-related coastal hazards for the US Southeast Atlantic Projections of multiple climate-related coastal hazards for the US Southeast Atlantic
Faced with accelerating sea level rise and changing ocean storm conditions, coastal communities require comprehensive assessments of climate-driven hazard impacts to inform adaptation measures. Previous studies have focused on flooding but rarely on other climate-related coastal hazards, such as subsidence, beach erosion and groundwater. Here, we project societal exposure to multiple...
Authors
Patrick L. Barnard, Kevin M. Befus, Jeffrey J. Danielson, Anita C Engelstad, Li H. Erikson, Amy C. Foxgrover, Maya Kumari Hayden, Daniel J. Hoover, Tim Leijnse, Chris Massey, Robert T. McCall, Norberto Nadal-Caraballo, Kees Nederhoff, Andrea C. O'Neill, Kai Alexander Parker, Manoochehr Shirzaei, Leonard O. Ohenhen, Peter W Swarzenski, Jennifer Anne Thomas, Maarten van Ormondt, Sean Vitousek, Killian Vos, Nathan J. Wood, Jeanne M. Jones, Jamie Jones
Scalable, data-assimilated models predict large-scale shoreline response to waves and sea-level rise Scalable, data-assimilated models predict large-scale shoreline response to waves and sea-level rise
Coastal change is a complex combination of multi-scale processes (e.g., wave-driven cross-shore and longshore transport; dune, bluff, and cliff erosion; overwash; fluvial and inlet sediment supply; and sea-level-driven recession). Historical sea-level-driven coastal recession on open ocean coasts is often outpaced by wave-driven change. However, future sea-level-driven coastal recession...
Authors
Sean Vitousek, Kilian Vos, Kristen D. Splinter, Kai Alexander Parker, Andrea C. O'Neill, Amy C. Foxgrover, Maya Kumari Hayden, Jennifer Anne Thomas, Li H. Erikson, Patrick L. Barnard
The projected exposure and response of a natural barrier island system to climate-driven coastal hazards The projected exposure and response of a natural barrier island system to climate-driven coastal hazards
Accelerating sea level rise (SLR) and changing storm patterns will increasingly expose barrier islands to coastal hazards, including flooding, erosion, and rising groundwater tables. We assess the exposure of Cape Lookout National Seashore, a barrier island system in North Carolina (USA), to projected SLR and storm hazards over the twenty-first century. We estimate that with 0.5 m of SLR...
Authors
Jennifer Anne Thomas, Patrick L. Barnard, Sean Vitousek, Li H. Erikson, Kai Alexander Parker, Kees Nederhoff, Kevin M. Befus, Manoochehr Shirzaei
Climate controls on longshore sediment transport and coastal morphology adjacent to engineered inlets Climate controls on longshore sediment transport and coastal morphology adjacent to engineered inlets
Coastal jetties are commonly used throughout the world to stabilize channels and improve navigation through inlets. These engineered structures form artificial boundaries to littoral cells by reducing wave-driven longshore sediment transport across inlet entrances. Consequently, beaches adjacent to engineered inlets are subject to large gradients in longshore transport rates and are...
Authors
Andrew W. Stevens, Peter R Ruggiero, Kai Alexander Parker, Sean Vitousek, Guy Gelfenbaum, George M Kaminsky
Monitoring interdecadal coastal change along dissipative beaches via satellite imagery at regional scale Monitoring interdecadal coastal change along dissipative beaches via satellite imagery at regional scale
Coastal morphological changes can be assessed using shoreline position observations from space. However, satellite-derived waterline (SDW) and shoreline (SDS; SDW corrected for hydrodynamic contributions and outliers) detection methods are subject to several sources of uncertainty and inaccuracy. We extracted high-spatiotemporal-resolution (~50 m-monthly) time series of mean high water...
Authors
Marcan Graffin, Mohsen Taherkhani, Meredith Leung, Sean Vitousek, George Kaminsky, Peter Ruggiero
Benchmarking satellite-derived shoreline mapping algorithms Benchmarking satellite-derived shoreline mapping algorithms
Satellite remote sensing is becoming a widely used monitoring technique in coastal sciences. Yet, no benchmarking studies exist that compare the performance of popular satellite-derived shoreline mapping algorithms against standardized sets of inputs and validation data. Here we present a new benchmarking framework to evaluate the accuracy of shoreline change observations extracted from...
Authors
Kilian Vos, Kristen D. Splinter, Jesus Palomar-Vázquez, Josep E. Pardo-Pascual, Jaime Almonacid-Caballer, Carlos Cabezas-Rabadán, Etienne Kras, Arjen Luijendijk, Floris Kalkoen, Luis P. Almeida, Daniel Pais, Antonio Henrique da Fontoura Klein, Yongjing Mao, Daniel Harris, Bruno Castelle, Daniel Buscombe, Sean Vitousek
CoSMoS-COAST: The Coastal, One-line, Assimilated, Simulation Tool of the Coastal Storm Modeling System CoSMoS-COAST: The Coastal, One-line, Assimilated, Simulation Tool of the Coastal Storm Modeling System
A software release of CoSMoS-COAST: The Coastal, One-line, Assimilated, Simulation Tool of the Coastal Storm Modeling System. The software (coded in Matlab) encapsulates a long-term shoreline change model that combines longshore and cross-shore transport and assimilates historical shoreline observations.
Filter Total Items: 15
Science and Products
DUNEX Modeling Waves, Water Levels, Sediment Transport, and Shoreline Change
Large, collaborative field experiments such as DUNEX leverage observations of the coastal ocean made by multiple academic, agency, and NGO teams, providing the opportunity to grasp a broader picture of the forces responsible for coastal change. Despite deployment of many instruments, it’s impossible to measure everything, everywhere, at all times. Numerical models that represent the physical...
CoSMoS-COAST
CoSMoS-COAST is a USGS-developed, large-scale coastal change prediction model. It seeks to model coastal change due to a variety of oceanographic and terrestrial processes across a multitude of spatiotemporal scales (e.g., local to national-scale).
Satellite-derived shorelines for the U.S. states of Oregon and Washington for the period 1984-2023, obtained using CoastSat Satellite-derived shorelines for the U.S. states of Oregon and Washington for the period 1984-2023, obtained using CoastSat
This dataset contains shoreline positions derived from available Landsat satellite imagery for two states (Oregon, and Washington) along the U.S. Pacific coast for the time period 1984 to 2023. An open-source toolbox, CoastSat (Vos and others, 2019a and 2019b), was used to classify coastal Landsat imagery and detect shorelines at the sub-pixel scale. Resulting shorelines are presented in...
Satellite-derived shorelines for Romania Black Sea coast for the period 1984 - 2023 using Landsat Satellite-derived shorelines for Romania Black Sea coast for the period 1984 - 2023 using Landsat
This dataset contains shoreline positions derived from available Landsat satellite imagery (1984 to 2023) for the Romanian Black Sea coast. The shoreline positions were derived on transects 50 m apart using the open-source toolbox, CoastSat described in Vos and others, 2019a and 2019b. Landsat coastal imagery was classified, and shoreline positions were detected at the sub-pixel scale...
Modeled nearshore wave parameters along the Columbia River littoral cell, Washington and Oregon, 2010-2023 Modeled nearshore wave parameters along the Columbia River littoral cell, Washington and Oregon, 2010-2023
Model hindcasts were performed with a spectral wave model to quantify nearshore wave parameters along the Columbia River littoral cell, Oregon and Washington. The spectral wave model SWAN was used to simulate nearshore wave dynamics at 1-hr intervals along the coast between 2014 and 2023. A second hindcast simulated wave dynamics between 2010 and 2011. This data release describes the...
Satellite-derived shorelines for the U.S. Gulf Coast states of Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, and Florida for the period 1984-2022, obtained using CoastSat Satellite-derived shorelines for the U.S. Gulf Coast states of Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, and Florida for the period 1984-2022, obtained using CoastSat
This dataset contains shoreline positions derived from available Landsat satellite imagery for four states (Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, and Florida) along the U.S. Gulf coast for the time period 1984 to 2022. An open-source toolbox, CoastSat (Vos and others, 2019a and 2019b), was used to classify coastal Landsat imagery and detect shorelines at the sub-pixel scale. Resulting...
Projections of shoreline change for California due to 21st century sea-level rise Projections of shoreline change for California due to 21st century sea-level rise
This dataset contains projections of shoreline change and uncertainty bands across California for future scenarios of sea-level rise (SLR). Projections were made using the Coastal Storm Modeling System - Coastal One-line Assimilated Simulation Tool (CoSMoS-COAST), a numerical model run in an ensemble forced with global-to-local nested wave models and assimilated with satellite-derived...
Future coastal hazards along the U.S. Atlantic coast Future coastal hazards along the U.S. Atlantic coast
This product consists of several datasets that map future coastal flooding and erosion hazards due to sea level rise (SLR) and storms for three States (Florida, Georgia, and Virginia) along the Atlantic coast of the United States. The SLR scenarios encompass a plausible range of projections by 2100 based on the best available science and with enough resolution to support a suite of...
Future coastal hazards along the U.S. North and South Carolina coasts Future coastal hazards along the U.S. North and South Carolina coasts
This product consists of several datasets that map future coastal flooding and erosion hazards due to sea level rise (SLR) and storms along the North and South Carolina coast. The SLR scenarios encompass a plausible range of projections by 2100 based on the best available, science and with enough resolution to support a suite of different planning horizons. The storm scenarios are...
Coastal Storm Modeling System (CoSMoS) for Northern California 3.2 (ver. 1g, April 2025) Coastal Storm Modeling System (CoSMoS) for Northern California 3.2 (ver. 1g, April 2025)
This dataset includes coastal flood and associated hazard projections for Humboldt County from Coastal Storm Modeling System (CoSMoS). CoSMoS makes detailed predictions (meter-scale) over large geographic scales (100s of kilometers) of storm-induced coastal flooding and erosion for both current and future sea-level rise (SLR) scenarios. CoSMoS 3.2 for Northern California shows...
Coastal Storm Modeling System (CoSMoS) for Southern California, v3.0, Phase 2 Coastal Storm Modeling System (CoSMoS) for Southern California, v3.0, Phase 2
The Coastal Storm Modeling System (CoSMoS) makes detailed predictions (meter-scale) over large geographic scales (100s of kilometers) of storm-induced coastal flooding and erosion for both current and future sea-level-rise scenarios, as well as long-term shoreline change and cliff retreat. Resulting projections for future climate scenarios (sea-level rise and storms) provide emergency...
Filter Total Items: 43
Are equilibrium shoreline models just convolutions? Are equilibrium shoreline models just convolutions?
Yes. Equilibrium shoreline models, which simulate wave-driven cross-shore erosion and accretion, are mathematically equivalent to a discrete convolution (i.e., a weighted, moving average) of a time series of wave-forcing conditions with a parameterized memory-decay kernel function. The direct equivalence between equilibrium shoreline models and convolutions reveals key theoretical...
Authors
Sean Vitousek, Daniel Buscombe, Eduardo Gomez-de la Peña, Kit Calcraft, Mark Alan Lundine, Kristen D. Splinter, Giovanni Coco, Patrick L. Barnard
Waterline responses to climate forcing along the North American West Coast Waterline responses to climate forcing along the North American West Coast
Understanding waterline variability at seasonal to interannual timescales is crucial for predicting coastal responses to climate forcing. However, relationships between large-scale climate variability and coastal morphodynamics remain underexplored beyond intensively monitored sites. This study leverages a newly developed 25-year (1997–2022) satellite-derived waterline dataset along the...
Authors
Marcan Graffin, Rafael Almar, Erwin W.J. Bergsma, Julien Boucharel, Sean Vitousek, Mohsen Taherkhani, Peter Ruggiero
Observations reveal changing coastal storm extremes around the United States Observations reveal changing coastal storm extremes around the United States
Understanding extreme storm surge events that threaten low-lying coastal communities is key to effective flood mitigation/adaptation measures. However, observational estimates are sparse and highly uncertain along most coastal regions with a lack of observational evidence about long-term underlying trends and their contribution to overall extreme sea-level changes. Here, using a...
Authors
Joao Morim, Thomas Wahl, D.J . Rasmussen, Francisco Calafat, Sean Vitousek, Soenke Dangendorf, Robert Kopp, Michael Oppenheimer
Evaluating five shoreline change models against 40 years of field survey data at an embayed sandy beach Evaluating five shoreline change models against 40 years of field survey data at an embayed sandy beach
Robust and reliable models are needed to understand how coastlines will evolve over the coming decades, driven by both natural variability and climate change. This study evaluated how accurately five popular ‘reduced-complexity’ models replicate multi-decadal shoreline change at Narrabeen-Collaroy Beach, a sandy embayment in Sydney, Australia. Measured shoreline positions derived from...
Authors
Oxana Repina, Rafael C. Carvalho, Giovanni Coco, Jose Antolínez, Iñaki de Santiago, Mitchell D. Harley, Camilo Jaramillo, Kristen D. Splinter, Sean Vitousek, Colin D. Woodroffe
Wave driven cross shore and alongshore transport reveal more extreme projections of shoreline change in island environments Wave driven cross shore and alongshore transport reveal more extreme projections of shoreline change in island environments
Coastal erosion, intensified by sea level rise, poses significant threats to coastal communities in Hawaiʻi and similar island communities. This study projects long-term shoreline change on the Hawaiian Island of O‘ahu using the data-assimilated CoSMoS-COAST shoreline change model. CoSMoS-COAST models four key shoreline processes: (1) Alongshore transport, (2) Recession due to sea level...
Authors
Richelle Moskvichev, Anna Mikkelsen, Tiffany Anderson, Sean Vitousek, Joel Nicolow, Charles Fletcher
Shoreline seasonality of California’s beaches Shoreline seasonality of California’s beaches
We report on remote sensing techniques developed to characterize seasonal shoreline cycles from satellite-derived shoreline measurements. These techniques are applied to 22-yr of shoreline measurements for over 777 km of beach along California's 1,700-km coast, for which the general understanding is that shorelines exhibit winter-narrow and summer-recovery seasonality. We find that...
Authors
Jonathan Warrick, Daniel D. Buscombe, Kilian Vos, Hannah Kenyon, Andrew C. Ritchie, Mitchell D. Harley, Catherine Nicole Janda, Jess L'Heureux, Sean Vitousek
Projections of multiple climate-related coastal hazards for the US Southeast Atlantic Projections of multiple climate-related coastal hazards for the US Southeast Atlantic
Faced with accelerating sea level rise and changing ocean storm conditions, coastal communities require comprehensive assessments of climate-driven hazard impacts to inform adaptation measures. Previous studies have focused on flooding but rarely on other climate-related coastal hazards, such as subsidence, beach erosion and groundwater. Here, we project societal exposure to multiple...
Authors
Patrick L. Barnard, Kevin M. Befus, Jeffrey J. Danielson, Anita C Engelstad, Li H. Erikson, Amy C. Foxgrover, Maya Kumari Hayden, Daniel J. Hoover, Tim Leijnse, Chris Massey, Robert T. McCall, Norberto Nadal-Caraballo, Kees Nederhoff, Andrea C. O'Neill, Kai Alexander Parker, Manoochehr Shirzaei, Leonard O. Ohenhen, Peter W Swarzenski, Jennifer Anne Thomas, Maarten van Ormondt, Sean Vitousek, Killian Vos, Nathan J. Wood, Jeanne M. Jones, Jamie Jones
Scalable, data-assimilated models predict large-scale shoreline response to waves and sea-level rise Scalable, data-assimilated models predict large-scale shoreline response to waves and sea-level rise
Coastal change is a complex combination of multi-scale processes (e.g., wave-driven cross-shore and longshore transport; dune, bluff, and cliff erosion; overwash; fluvial and inlet sediment supply; and sea-level-driven recession). Historical sea-level-driven coastal recession on open ocean coasts is often outpaced by wave-driven change. However, future sea-level-driven coastal recession...
Authors
Sean Vitousek, Kilian Vos, Kristen D. Splinter, Kai Alexander Parker, Andrea C. O'Neill, Amy C. Foxgrover, Maya Kumari Hayden, Jennifer Anne Thomas, Li H. Erikson, Patrick L. Barnard
The projected exposure and response of a natural barrier island system to climate-driven coastal hazards The projected exposure and response of a natural barrier island system to climate-driven coastal hazards
Accelerating sea level rise (SLR) and changing storm patterns will increasingly expose barrier islands to coastal hazards, including flooding, erosion, and rising groundwater tables. We assess the exposure of Cape Lookout National Seashore, a barrier island system in North Carolina (USA), to projected SLR and storm hazards over the twenty-first century. We estimate that with 0.5 m of SLR...
Authors
Jennifer Anne Thomas, Patrick L. Barnard, Sean Vitousek, Li H. Erikson, Kai Alexander Parker, Kees Nederhoff, Kevin M. Befus, Manoochehr Shirzaei
Climate controls on longshore sediment transport and coastal morphology adjacent to engineered inlets Climate controls on longshore sediment transport and coastal morphology adjacent to engineered inlets
Coastal jetties are commonly used throughout the world to stabilize channels and improve navigation through inlets. These engineered structures form artificial boundaries to littoral cells by reducing wave-driven longshore sediment transport across inlet entrances. Consequently, beaches adjacent to engineered inlets are subject to large gradients in longshore transport rates and are...
Authors
Andrew W. Stevens, Peter R Ruggiero, Kai Alexander Parker, Sean Vitousek, Guy Gelfenbaum, George M Kaminsky
Monitoring interdecadal coastal change along dissipative beaches via satellite imagery at regional scale Monitoring interdecadal coastal change along dissipative beaches via satellite imagery at regional scale
Coastal morphological changes can be assessed using shoreline position observations from space. However, satellite-derived waterline (SDW) and shoreline (SDS; SDW corrected for hydrodynamic contributions and outliers) detection methods are subject to several sources of uncertainty and inaccuracy. We extracted high-spatiotemporal-resolution (~50 m-monthly) time series of mean high water...
Authors
Marcan Graffin, Mohsen Taherkhani, Meredith Leung, Sean Vitousek, George Kaminsky, Peter Ruggiero
Benchmarking satellite-derived shoreline mapping algorithms Benchmarking satellite-derived shoreline mapping algorithms
Satellite remote sensing is becoming a widely used monitoring technique in coastal sciences. Yet, no benchmarking studies exist that compare the performance of popular satellite-derived shoreline mapping algorithms against standardized sets of inputs and validation data. Here we present a new benchmarking framework to evaluate the accuracy of shoreline change observations extracted from...
Authors
Kilian Vos, Kristen D. Splinter, Jesus Palomar-Vázquez, Josep E. Pardo-Pascual, Jaime Almonacid-Caballer, Carlos Cabezas-Rabadán, Etienne Kras, Arjen Luijendijk, Floris Kalkoen, Luis P. Almeida, Daniel Pais, Antonio Henrique da Fontoura Klein, Yongjing Mao, Daniel Harris, Bruno Castelle, Daniel Buscombe, Sean Vitousek
CoSMoS-COAST: The Coastal, One-line, Assimilated, Simulation Tool of the Coastal Storm Modeling System CoSMoS-COAST: The Coastal, One-line, Assimilated, Simulation Tool of the Coastal Storm Modeling System
A software release of CoSMoS-COAST: The Coastal, One-line, Assimilated, Simulation Tool of the Coastal Storm Modeling System. The software (coded in Matlab) encapsulates a long-term shoreline change model that combines longshore and cross-shore transport and assimilates historical shoreline observations.
Filter Total Items: 15