Publications
Explore scientific publications from the USGS St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center.
Filter Total Items: 955
Modeling the impacts of sand placement strategies on barrier island evolution in a semi-enclosed bay system Modeling the impacts of sand placement strategies on barrier island evolution in a semi-enclosed bay system
This study assesses the impacts of five proposed restoration actions at Little Dauphin Island, a low-lying relic spit in a semi-enclosed bay system on the Alabama coast. A Delft3D model is developed to simulate annual scale (five-year) sediment transport and resulting bed level changes. The model is validated with observed water level and wave data, as well as sediment tracers that were...
Authors
Davina Passeri, Rangley Mickey, David Thompson, Michael Itzkin, Elizabeth Godsey, Matthew Bilskie, Alexander Seymour, Autumn C. Poisson, Jin Ikeda, Scott Hagen
Validation of the U37K' paleotemperature proxy in the South Brazilian Bight from core-top sediments Validation of the U37K' paleotemperature proxy in the South Brazilian Bight from core-top sediments
The paleothermometer based on the alkenone unsaturation index (U37K′) is often used to reconstruct past sea surface temperatures (SST). In the SW Atlantic Ocean, however, a limited understanding of the seasonal and depth distribution of coccolithophores, which generates the U37K′ signal preserved in ocean sediments, hinders accurate estimates of past regional SSTs. We analyzed 45 core...
Authors
Felipe Stanchak, Julie Richey, Amanda Gerotto, Amelia Shevenell, Marcia C. Bicego, Felipe A. Toledo, Michel M. de Mahiques, Renata H. Nagai
Predictive regressive models of recent marsh sediment thickness improve the quantification of coastal marsh sediment budgets Predictive regressive models of recent marsh sediment thickness improve the quantification of coastal marsh sediment budgets
Coastal marsh wetlands experience variations in vertical gains and losses through time, which have allowed them to infill relict topography and record variations in drivers. The stratigraphic unit associated with the development of the marsh also reflects the long-term importance of key ecosystem services supplied by the marsh environment, including carbon storage and storm mitigation...
Authors
Christopher G. Smith, Julie Bernier, Alisha Ellis, Kathryn Smith
Shifts in marsh erosion, migration, and wave exposure over nearly two centuries of sea-level rise in the Gulf of Mexico Shifts in marsh erosion, migration, and wave exposure over nearly two centuries of sea-level rise in the Gulf of Mexico
Coastal wetlands are economically important ecosystems, but are at risk to erosion from waves, storms, and sea level rise. However, marshes can persist under rising sea level through vertical accretion and migration into adjacent higher-elevation habitats. We measured rates of marsh shoreline change and migration and compared the results for historical and modern periods in a largely...
Authors
Kathryn Smith, Joseph Terrano, Robert L. Jenkins, Jonathan Pitchford, Davina Passeri, Christopher G. Smith
Participatory engagement to reduce communication gaps Participatory engagement to reduce communication gaps
Underserved communities, especially those in coastal areas in Puerto Rico, face significant threats from natural hazards such as hurricanes and rising sea levels. Limited funding hinders the investment in costly mitigation measures, increasing exposure to natural disasters. Providing coastal resources and data products through effective communication mechanisms is fundamental to...
Authors
Legna Torres-Garcia, Manuel Valdés Pizzini, Krystalliá Valdés-Calderón, Donya Frank-Gilchrist, Dawn Marie Kotowicz, Emmanuel Maldonado, Priscila Vargas-Babilonia
Deterministic, dynamic model forecasts of storm-driven coastal erosion Deterministic, dynamic model forecasts of storm-driven coastal erosion
The U.S. Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico coasts are vulnerable to storms, which can cause significant erosion of beaches and dunes that protect coastal communities. Real-time forecasts of storm-driven erosion are useful for decision support, but they are limited due to demands for computational resources and uncertainties in dynamic coastal systems and storm forcings. Current methods for...
Authors
Jessica Frances Gorski, Joel C. Dietrich, Davina Passeri, Rangley Mickey, Rick A. Luettich
Cross-shore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics modeling of an erosive event in the inner surf zone Cross-shore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics modeling of an erosive event in the inner surf zone
The phase-averaged and depth-integrated coastal morphodynamic model, XBeach-Surfbeat, was investigated for its capability of predicting the cross-shore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics in the inner surf zone by simulating the storm-induced berm erosion, sediment transport, and subsequent sand bar formation. By utilizing a comprehensive hydrodynamic and morphodynamic dataset measured in a...
Authors
Jiaye Zhang, Benjamin Tsai, Yashar Rafati, Tian-Jian Hsu, Jack Puleo
Model sensitivity analysis for coastal morphodynamics: Investigating sediment parameters and bed composition in Delft3D Model sensitivity analysis for coastal morphodynamics: Investigating sediment parameters and bed composition in Delft3D
Numerical simulation of sediment transport and subsequent morphological evolution rely on accurate parameterizations of sediment characteristics. However, these data are often not available or are spatially and/or temporally limited. This study approaches the problem of limited sediment grain-size data with a series of simulations assessing model sensitivity to sediment parameters and...
Authors
Robert L. Jenkins, Christopher G. Smith, Davina Passeri, Alisha Ellis
Vortex trapping of suspended sand grains over ripples Vortex trapping of suspended sand grains over ripples
Coastal hydrodynamics and morphodynamics integrate the effects of small-scale fluid-sediment interactions; yet, these small-scale processes are not well understood. To investigate sediment trapping by turbulent coherent structures or vortices, the transport of coarse sand over ripples was analyzed in a small-oscillatory flow tunnel with phase-separated Particle Image and Tracking...
Authors
Donya Frank-Gilchrist, Allison Penko, Margaret Palmsten, Joseph Calantoni
Predicting characteristic length scales of barrier island segmentation in microtidal environments Predicting characteristic length scales of barrier island segmentation in microtidal environments
Segmented barrier islands can be found in regions with small tidal ranges. In contrast to tidally dominated barriers, where inlet dynamics are thought to control island length scales, the controls on barrier island length scales in wave-dominated environments have not been quantified. These microtidal barriers typically have a curved shoreline, suggesting the influence of wave-driven...
Authors
Rose Palermo, Andrew Ashton, Heidi Nepf, Mary Kule, Travis Swanson
Projected sea-level rise and high tide flooding at San Juan National Historic Site, Puerto Rico Projected sea-level rise and high tide flooding at San Juan National Historic Site, Puerto Rico
IntroductionNational parks and preserves in the South Atlantic-Gulf Region contain valuable coastal habitats such as tidal wetlands and mangrove forests, as well as irreplaceable historic buildings and archeological sites located in low-lying areas. These natural and cultural resources are vulnerable to accelerated sea-level rise and escalating high tide flooding events. Through a...
Authors
Hana Thurman, Nicholas M. Enwright, Michael Osland, Davina Passeri, Richard Day, Bethanie Simons
Large eddy simulation of cross-shore hydrodynamics under random waves in the inner surf and swash zones Large eddy simulation of cross-shore hydrodynamics under random waves in the inner surf and swash zones
A 3D large eddy simulation coupled with a free surface tracking scheme was used to simulate cross-shore hydrodynamics as observed in a large wave flume experiment. The primary objective was to enhance the understanding of wave-backwash interactions and the implications for observed morphodynamics. Two simulation cases were carried out to elucidate key processes of wave-backwash...
Authors
Benjamin Tsai, Tian-Jian Hsu, Seok-Bong Lee, Maria Pontiki, Jack Puleo, Meagan Wengrove