Publications

Sea level rise is expected to affect coastal areas all around the world, including the estuarine environment. New bathymetry collected in 2014 provided a unique opportunity to test the modeling of Elmilady et al. (2019), who presented a morphodynamic DELFT3D model of San Pablo Bay, California, that included detailed tidal water movement, wind-wave action, sediment transport, and...

The lower reach of the Kootenai River in northern Idaho is dominated by large and actively migrating meander bends. Flow conditions, altered by both upstream flow reductions and by downstream backwater effects, are believed to be important geomorphological drivers throughout the reach. For example, Trout Creek Peninsula, located in an area of active meander migration, is undergoing...

Excessive fine-grained sediment runoff due to anthropogenic activities is a major environmental concern for watersheds worldwide, especially so for urban areas such as Washington, D.C. Dated grey infrastructure, i.e., the network of buried pipes and reservoirs managing water resources, can amplify existing issues with sediment runoff and associated pollutants. This infrastructure, which...

Considerable uncertainty remains in the budgets of carbonate sediment on reef lined coasts, particularly with respect to the supply of sediment to a reef flat that is then transported throughout a reef system. In this study, we re-examine two recent studies, one on a barrier reef bounded by channels that incise the reef, and one on a fringing reef without channels. Results indicate that...

The U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) provides operational forecasts of total water levels (TWL) and coastal change. Uncertainties around forecast TWL are based on the temporal and spatial range of observed beach slopes near the forecast site. This paper investigates other sources of uncertainty that are not accounted for, focusing on four beaches where the USGS has deployed remote cameras...

To help guide watershed restoration to reduce the impacts to adjacent coral reefs, the United States Geological Survey and Deltares acquired and analyzed oceanographic and sedimentologic data off 5 West Maui watersheds to calibrate and validate physics-based, numerical hydrodynamic and sediment transport models of the study area. The results indicated sheltered sites are impacted by...

Bedload-trapping efficiencies (coefficients) were derived for four types of pressure-difference bedload samplers at the St. Anthony Falls Laboratory, University of Minnesota during the first two phases of flume experiments in January-March, 2006, referred to as “StreamLab06.” The bedload-sampler research component was part of a series of community-led, large-scale laboratory experiments...

We analyzed elevation changes at the northern Chandeleur Islands, Louisiana, to quantify sediment fluxes and assess sediment transport processes over two time periods (1920 – 2007 and 2007 – 2015). Wave-driven alongshore sediment transport is the predominant fair-weather process, whereas storms transport sediment across the island platform and promote shoreline retreat. Major storm...

Understanding fluvial sediment transport is critical to addressing many environmental concerns such as exacerbated flooding, degradation of aquatic habitat, excess nutrients, and the economic challenges of restoring aquatic systems. However, fluvial sediment transport is difficult to understand because of the multitude of factors controlling the potential sources, delivery, mechanics...

Arctic barrier islands and spits are dynamic features influenced by a variety of oceanographic, geologic, and environmental factors. Many serve as habitat and protection for native species and shelter the coast from waves and storms that can flood and erode the adjacent mainland. This paper summarizes results of a study documenting changes to barrier morphology along the North Slope...

The DUring Nearshore Event eXperiment (DUNEX) was carried out on Pea Island, North Carolina, USA between September-October 2021. We use a coupled numerical model (Windsurf) to hindcast the evolution of the DUNEX transect and produce a time series of hourly water levels at the shoreline from the model output. In addition to assessing the ability of Windsurf to reproduce TWL, we use model...

The combined effect of storm surge and large waves is the main driving mechanism that erodes beaches, inundates low-lying areas, leading to millions of dollars in property damage, loss of natural resources, and lives. The U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) aims to expand the real-time total water level (TWL) forecast provided in the Operational Total Water Level and Coastal Change Forecasts...