Research Oceanographer with the USGS Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center
Science and Products
Sediment Transport in Coastal Environments
Tsunami Hazards, Modeling, and the Sedimentary Record
San Francisco Bay Bathymetry
San Francisco Bay geomorphology
Tsunami Field Studies
Effects of Sea-Level Rise and Extreme Storms on California Coastal Habitats: Part 1
USGS Scientists in Samoa and American Samoa Studying Impacts of Tsunami in 2009
Preliminary Analysis of Sedimentary Deposits from the June 23, 2001 Peru Tsunami
Preliminary Analysis of Sedimentary Deposits from the July 17, 1998 Papua New Guinea Tsunami
Bathymetric change analysis in San Francisco Bay, California, from 1971 to 2020
Bathymetry and acoustic backscatter data for Santa Cruz Harbor, California collected during USGS field activity 2022-609-FA
Bathymetric surveys collected near Dumbarton Bridge in south San Francisco Bay, California, 2008 to 2019
Observations of tsunami and runup heights in Santa Cruz Harbor and surrounding beaches from the 2022 Hunga Tonga-Hunga Ha'apai tsunami
High-resolution (1 m) digital elevation model (DEM) of San Francisco Bay, California, created using bathymetry data collected between 1999 and 2020 (ver. 2.0, July 2021)
Pilot study on bathymetric change analyses in the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta, California
Core logs, scans, photographs, grain size, and radiocarbon data from coastal wetlands on the Hawaiian islands of Kaua`i, O`ahu, and Hawai`i
Bathymetry and acoustic backscatter data of the Sacramento River, from the Feather River to Knights Landing, California in February, 2011
Gravity cores from San Pablo Bay and Carquinez Strait, San Francisco Bay, California
San Francisco Bay Delta Bathymetric/Topographic digital elevation model (DEM) - 2016 SF Bay Delta DEM 10-m
High-resolution bathymetry and topography of south San Francisco Bay, California
Successful hindcast of 7 years of mud morphodynamics influenced by salt pond restoration in south San Francisco Bay
Observations and morphodynamic modeling of decadal-scale morphologic change in estuaries under sea level rise
Sediment deposition, erosion, and bathymetric change in San Francisco Bay, California, 1971–1990 and 1999–2020
South San Francisco Bay Salt Pond Restoration Project—A synthesis of Phase-1 mercury studies
The San Francisco Estuary, USA as a reference section for an Anthropocene series
Diverse tsunamigenesis triggered by the Hunga Tonga-Hunga Ha’apai eruption
Nearshore microfossil assemblages in a Caribbean reef environment show variable rates of recovery following Hurricane Irma
The role of surges during periods of very shallow water on sediment transport over tidal flats
Selective sediment transport during Hurricane Sandy on Fire Island (New York, USA): Inferences from heavy-mineral assemblages
Anthropogenic pollutants and biomarkers for the identification of 2011 Tohoku-oki tsunami deposits (Japan)
Morphodynamic resilience of intertidal mudflats on a seasonal time scale
Intertidal mudflats are morphodynamic features present in many estuaries worldwide. Often located between vegetated shores and deep channels they comprise valuable ecosystems and serve to protect the hinterland by attenuating waves. Although mudflats are persistently present on yearly to decadal time scales, little is known on their morphodynamic adaptation to short‐term variations in forcing such
The roles of flow acceleration and deceleration in sediment suspension in the surf zone
Science and Products
- Science
Sediment Transport in Coastal Environments
Our research goals are to provide the scientific information, knowledge, and tools required to ensure that decisions about land and resource use, management practices, and future development in the coastal zone and adjacent watersheds can be evaluated with a complete understanding of the probable effects on coastal ecosystems and communities, and a full assessment of their vulnerability to natural...Tsunami Hazards, Modeling, and the Sedimentary Record
Basic research to develop the geologic record of paleotsunamis and improve the ability to interpret that record is needed to mitigate tsunami risk in the U.S.ByNatural Hazards Mission Area, Coastal and Marine Hazards and Resources Program, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center, 3-D CT Core Imaging Laboratory, Core Preparation and Analysis Laboratory and Sample Repositories, Multi-Sensor Core Logger Laboratory, Sediment Lab Suite and Carbon Analysis Laboratory, Subduction Zone ScienceSan Francisco Bay Bathymetry
Bathymetry of a dynamic tidal estuary, such as San Francisco Bay, provides the observable linkage between anthropogenic modifications of the landscape—such as evolving land use practices, flood control, and water diversions—and natural forces of climate-driven river flow, sea level change, tides, and wind. By examining our record of hydrographic surveys, spanning over 150 years, we can gain...San Francisco Bay geomorphology
The primary objective of this task is to develop tools for predicting the long-term geomorphic evolution of estuaries. Sediment core and historical change analysis will be used in combination with interpretation of high-resolution seismic profiles to develop tools for predicting geomorphic evolution of estuaries. Historical change analysis will use hydrographic and lidar data. Longer-term data...Tsunami Field Studies
Our tsunami scientists work on international teams to study the aftermath of tsunamis around the world, to gain a better understanding the impact of potential tsunamis on coastal communities of the United States. Their work helps inform local, state, and federal coastal planning, protection, and resiliency.Effects of Sea-Level Rise and Extreme Storms on California Coastal Habitats: Part 1
In California, the near-shore area where the ocean meets the land is a highly productive yet sensitive region that supports a wealth of wildlife, including several native bird species. These saltmarshes, mudflats, and shallow bays are not only critical for wildlife, but they also provide economic and recreational benefits to local communities. Today, sea-level rise, more frequent and stronger storUSGS Scientists in Samoa and American Samoa Studying Impacts of Tsunami in 2009
On September 29, 2009, an M 8.1 earthquake in the Samoa Islands region of the South Pacific Ocean caused a tsunami that resulted in 100's of lost lives. A rapid-response team of USGS scientists traveled to the Samoa Islands in October-November 2009 to collect time-sensitive data that would have been quickly degraded or destroyed by recovery activity and natural processes.Preliminary Analysis of Sedimentary Deposits from the June 23, 2001 Peru Tsunami
A Cooperative Study by the USGS, la Dirección de Hidrografía y Navegación de la Marina de Guerra del Perú, Instituto Geofísico del Perú, Instituto Geologico, Minero y Metalurgico, University of California, Santa Cruz, University of Southern California, and University of San Agustin. September 4 - September 18, 2001Preliminary Analysis of Sedimentary Deposits from the July 17, 1998 Papua New Guinea Tsunami
Preliminary analysis of sedimentary deposits from the tsunami caused by the July 17, 1998 Papua New Guinea earthquake. - Data
Bathymetric change analysis in San Francisco Bay, California, from 1971 to 2020
This data release provides bathymetric change grids of four geographic areas of San Francisco Bay, California, comparing digital elevation models (DEMs) created from bathymetric data collected in the 1970s and 1980s with DEMs created from bathymetric data collected in the 2010s and 2020. These types of change analyses can provide information on the quantities and patterns of erosion and depositionBathymetry and acoustic backscatter data for Santa Cruz Harbor, California collected during USGS field activity 2022-609-FA
Bathymetry and acoustic-backscatter data were collected during a January 2022 SWATHPlus survey of the Santa Cruz harbor, California (field activity number 2022-609-FA). The data are provided as 1-meter resolution GeoTIFF files.Bathymetric surveys collected near Dumbarton Bridge in south San Francisco Bay, California, 2008 to 2019
In 2008, the U.S. Geological Survey began mapping the main channel and shallow intertidal mudflats between the Dumbarton Bridge and a railroad bridge located 1 km to the south in south San Francisco Bay. This information was collected to document bathymetric change before and after restoration to inform the South Bay Salt Pond Restoration Project (https://www.southbayrestoration.org), which initiaObservations of tsunami and runup heights in Santa Cruz Harbor and surrounding beaches from the 2022 Hunga Tonga-Hunga Ha'apai tsunami
The 14 January 2022 eruption of Tonga Hunga-Tonga Ha'apai volcano generated tsunamis that impacted the west coast of the United States on the morning of 15 January 2022. This data release presents runup heights and tsunami heights collected by the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) and the California Geological Survey (CGS) during surveys at the Santa Cruz Harbor and beaches in Santa Cruz County, CalifHigh-resolution (1 m) digital elevation model (DEM) of San Francisco Bay, California, created using bathymetry data collected between 1999 and 2020 (ver. 2.0, July 2021)
A 1-m resolution bathymetric digital elevation model (DEM) of all off San Francisco Bay was constructed from bathymetric surveys collected from 1999 to 2016. The DEM has been divided into northern and southern sections due to file size, and is available in both MLLW and NAVD88 versions. Background: In 2014 and 2015 the California Ocean Protection Council (OPC) contracted the collection of bathyPilot study on bathymetric change analyses in the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta, California
The bathymetry of the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta affects the flow of water and sediment throughout the system and is a basic control on levee stability, habitat distribution, and water quality. Delta bathymetry is dynamic, responding to both natural forces and human activities. Assessment of future Delta conditions is aided by understanding how its bathymetry has changed in the past. This pilotCore logs, scans, photographs, grain size, and radiocarbon data from coastal wetlands on the Hawaiian islands of Kaua`i, O`ahu, and Hawai`i
Over the past 200 years of written records, the Hawaiian Islands have experienced tens of tsunamis generated by earthquakes in the subduction zones of the Pacific "Ring of Fire" (for example, Alaska-Aleutian, Kuril-Kamchatka, Chile, and Japan). Mapping and dating anomalous beds of sand and silt along the coasts of these subduction zones are critical for assessing the hazard from distant as well asBathymetry and acoustic backscatter data of the Sacramento River, from the Feather River to Knights Landing, California in February, 2011
On February 1, 2011, the USGS Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center (PCMSC) team carried out a project using interferometric sidescan sonar to characterize the riverbed and channel banks of a 12 mile reach of the Sacramento River near the town of Knights Landing, California (River Mile 79 through River Mile 91). The project was developed in coordination with David Smith, Engineering Research aGravity cores from San Pablo Bay and Carquinez Strait, San Francisco Bay, California
This data release contains information on gravity cores that were collected by the U.S. Geological Survey in the area of San Pablo Bay and Carquinez Strait, California in 1990, 1991, and 2000. Ten (10) pdf files describe gravity cores that were split, photographed, and imaged by X-rays, and another pdf file contains a core-log legend. In addition, a shapefile (sanpablo_spls.shp) provides sample coSan Francisco Bay Delta Bathymetric/Topographic digital elevation model (DEM) - 2016 SF Bay Delta DEM 10-m
A high-resolution (10-meter per pixel) digital elevation model (DEM) was created for the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta using both bathymetry and topography data. This DEM is the result of collaborative efforts of the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) and the California Department of Water Resources (DWR). The base of the DEM is from a 10-m DEM released in 2004 and updated in 2005 (Foxgrover and others, - Maps
High-resolution bathymetry and topography of south San Francisco Bay, California
This map consists of a view of the southern end of San Francisco bay with the water 'removed.' The image is overlain by a set of six figures: - Figure 1. Perspective view looking southeast down south San Francisco Bay. - Figure 2. Perspective view looking east with the Diablo Range in the distance. - Figure 3. Perspective view looking southwest over Bair Island toward Redwood City. - Figure 4. P - Multimedia
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Filter Total Items: 85
Successful hindcast of 7 years of mud morphodynamics influenced by salt pond restoration in south San Francisco Bay
Alviso Slough in South San Francisco Bay has been experiencing restoration of adjacent former salt-production ponds into muted tidal ponds, tidal ponds, and salt marsh. As a result, tidal prism through Alviso Slough has increased and mercury-contaminated sediment has been remobilized. We developed a 2D, high-resolution, process-based model (Delft3D FM-wave) to hindcast observed morpho-dynamic deveAuthorsMick Van der Wegen, Johan Reyns, Bruce E. Jaffe, Amy C. Foxgrover, Fernanda Achete, Mark C. Marvin-DiPasquale, Theresa A. Fregoso, Judy Nam, Jessica LoveringObservations and morphodynamic modeling of decadal-scale morphologic change in estuaries under sea level rise
Sea level rise is expected to affect coastal areas all around the world, including the estuarine environment. New bathymetry collected in 2014 provided a unique opportunity to test the modeling of Elmilady et al. (2019), who presented a morphodynamic DELFT3D model of San Pablo Bay, California, that included detailed tidal water movement, wind-wave action, sediment transport, and resulting bed leveAuthorsBruce E. Jaffe, Hesham Elmilady, Mick Van der Wegen, Theresa A. FregosoSediment deposition, erosion, and bathymetric change in San Francisco Bay, California, 1971–1990 and 1999–2020
Bathymetric change analyses document historical patterns of sediment deposition and erosion, providing valuable insight into the sediment dynamics of coastal systems, including pathways of sediment and sediment-bound contaminants. In 2014 and 2015, the Office for Coastal Management, in partnership with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) Office of Coastal Management, provideAuthorsTheresa A. Fregoso, Amy C. Foxgrover, Bruce E. JaffeSouth San Francisco Bay Salt Pond Restoration Project—A synthesis of Phase-1 mercury studies
The South Bay Salt Pond Restoration Project (SBSPRP) encompasses over 6,000 hectares of former salt production ponds along the south edge of the San Francisco Bay and represents the largest wetland restoration effort on the west coast of North America. A series of studies associated with Phase 1 (2010–2018) restoration activities that are focused on a historically mercury contaminated slough and sAuthorsMark Marvin-DiPasquale, Darell Slotton, Josh T. Ackerman, Maureen A. Downing-Kunz, Bruce E. Jaffe, Amy C. Foxgrover, Fernanda Achete, Mick van der WegenThe San Francisco Estuary, USA as a reference section for an Anthropocene series
A San Francisco Estuary core was analysed at high resolution to assess its component stratigraphic signatures of the Anthropocene in the form of non-native species, Hg, spheroidal carbonaceous particles, δ13Corg, δ15N, radiogenic materials, and heavy metals. Time series analysis of the core using Ti data provides a chronology to depth 167 cm into the 1960s. Below this, to depth 230 cm, the lowermoAuthorsStephen J Himson, Mark A. Williams, Jan Zalasiewicz, Colin N. Waters, Mary McGann, Richard England, Bruce E. Jaffe, Arnoud Boom, Rachael Holmes, Sue Sampson, Cerin Pye, Juan Carlos Berrio, Genevieve Tyrrell, Ian P. Wilkinson, Neil Rose, Pawel Gaca, Andrew CundyDiverse tsunamigenesis triggered by the Hunga Tonga-Hunga Ha’apai eruption
On the evening of 15 January 2022, the Hunga Tonga-Hunga Ha’apai volcano1 unleashed a violent underwater eruption, blanketing the surrounding land masses in ash and debris. The eruption generated tsunamis observed around the world. An event of this type last occurred in 1883 during the eruption of Krakatau, and thus we have the first observations of a tsunami from a large emergent volcanic eruptioAuthorsPatrick Lynett, Maile McCann, Zili Zhou, Willington Renteria, Jose Borrero, Dougal Greer, 'Ofa Fa'anunu, Cyprien Bosserelle, Bruce E. Jaffe, SeanPaul La Selle, Andrew C. Ritchie, Alexander G. Snyder, Brandon Nasr, Jaqueline Bott, Nicholas A Graehl, Costas Synolakis, Behzad Ebrahimi, Ezgi CinarNearshore microfossil assemblages in a Caribbean reef environment show variable rates of recovery following Hurricane Irma
Modern microfossil distributions reflect site-specific habitats and provide an opportunity to assess sediment transport pathways in the nearshore environment. When applied to overwash deposits in the geological record, they provide insight into sediment provenance and transport, factors important for understanding patterns of frequency and intensity of past storms and tsunamis. Modern distributionAuthorsStephen Mitchell, Jessica Pilarczyk, Michaela Spiske, Bruce E. JaffeThe role of surges during periods of very shallow water on sediment transport over tidal flats
Periods of very shallow water (water depth in the order of 10 cm) occur daily on tidal flats because of the propagation of tides over very gently sloping beds, leading to distinct morphodynamical phenomena. To improve the understanding of the characteristics of velocity and suspended sediment concentration (SSC) surges and their contribution to sediment transport and local bed changes during perioAuthorsQian Zhang, Zheng Gong, Changkuan Zhang, Jessica R. Lacy, Bruce E. Jaffe, Beibei Xu, Xindi ChenSelective sediment transport during Hurricane Sandy on Fire Island (New York, USA): Inferences from heavy-mineral assemblages
In October 2012, Hurricane Sandy caused severe erosion on beaches and dunes of Fire Island (New York, USA). Major shoreline changes occurred with erosional dominance in the upper shoreline and aggradation in the lowermost section of the beach due to the deposition of eroded upper beach and dune sediment. Sand laminations with a high concentration of heavy minerals (“black sand laminations”) were oAuthorsJoão Cascalho, Pedro Costa, Guy R. Gelfenbaum, SeanPaul La Selle, Bruce E. JaffeAnthropogenic pollutants and biomarkers for the identification of 2011 Tohoku-oki tsunami deposits (Japan)
Organic geochemistry is commonly used in environmental studies. In tsunami research, however, its applications are in their infancy and it is still rarely used. We present results for two types of organic geochemical markers, biomarkers and anthropogenic markers, present in deposits left by 2011 Tohoku-oki tsunami on the Sendai Plain, Japan. As the tsunami inundated the coastal lowland up to 4.85AuthorsPiero Bellanova, Mike Frenken, Klaus Reicherter, Bruce E. Jaffe, Witold Szczucinski, Jan SchwarzbauerMorphodynamic resilience of intertidal mudflats on a seasonal time scale
Intertidal mudflats are morphodynamic features present in many estuaries worldwide. Often located between vegetated shores and deep channels they comprise valuable ecosystems and serve to protect the hinterland by attenuating waves. Although mudflats are persistently present on yearly to decadal time scales, little is known on their morphodynamic adaptation to short‐term variations in forcing such
AuthorsMick Van der Wegen, Dano Roelvink, Bruce E. JaffeThe roles of flow acceleration and deceleration in sediment suspension in the surf zone
Prediction of sediment suspension in the surf zone remains elusive. We explore how suspended sediment concentration at 19 cm above the bed in the mid-surf zone during a storm is influenced by flow acceleration and deceleration. There is a tendency for higher suspended sediment concentrations during onshore flow, with decelerating onshore flows having higher concentrations than steady, acceleratingAuthorsBruce E. Jaffe, SeanPaul La Selle - News