Scientists collected sand auger cores from Fire Island to help reconstruct the evolution of the barrier over the last several centuries, with the goal of quantifying changes in sediment input and partitioning through time (e.g., how sand is distributed between the terrestrial portion of the barrier and the beach/shoreface).
Coastal Sediment Availability and Flux (CSAF)
Active
By St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center
March 19, 2020
Storm-Related Barrier Island Morphological Evolution
Barrier Island Sensitivity to Changes in Sediment Supply
Shoreface Morphology and Geology
Modeling Barrier Island Evolution, Shoreface Morphology, and Overwash
Coastal Sediment Availability and Flux (CSAF) Capabilities
Sediments are the foundation of coastal systems, including barrier islands. Their behavior is driven by not only sediment availability, but also sediment exchanges between barrier island environments. We collect geophysical, remote sensing, and sediment data to estimate these parameters, which are integrated with models to improve prediction of coastal response to extreme storms and sea-level rise.
Featured Publication
Featured Publication
The shorelines of Titan’s hydrocarbon seas trace flooded erosional landforms such as river valleys; however, it is unclear whether coastal erosion has subsequently altered these shorelines. Spacecraft observations and theoretical models suggest that wind may cause waves to form on Titan’s seas...
Featured Software
Featured Software
The Numerical model of coastal Erosion by Waves and Transgressive Scarps (NEWTS) model is a framework to simulate the erosion of a closed-basin coastline through time by fetch-dependent erosion or uniform erosion.
Barrier Islands as Connected Systems
With a wealth of knowledge about how shorelines, beaches, and dunes respond to storms and the variability of inner shelf geology, the USGS Coastal and Marine Hazards and Resources Program is poised to extend its morphologic and geologic expertise across the shoreface and back-barrier data gaps. Shoreface geology is particularly important to assess since it may record evidence of processes that we otherwise don’t have the opportunities or capabilities to observe. With these goals in mind, we measure geology and morphology in coastal environments to reconstruct past environmental histories and estimate the magnitude and rate of sediment exchanges (e.g., fluxes) over a range of time scales. Integration of these observations with models allows us to predict past and future behavior of barrier-island systems in a changing climate and provides information to help our partners mitigate coastal hazards and identify coastal restoration priorities.
Project Objectives:
- Incorporate shoreface morphology and geology into coastal-change assessments
- Conduct repeat geophysical surveys to estimate sediment fluxes with better accuracy and temporal resolution
- Understand how coastal systems respond to storms, variations in sediment supply and rate of sea-level rise over short (1-10s year) and long (100-1000 year) time scales
- Make predictions of future (long-term) coastal vulnerability and resilience rooted in robust morphologic and geologic observations
Sources/Usage: Public Domain. View Media Details
Learn more about the Coastal Sediment Availability and Flux project
Storm-Related Barrier Island Morphological Evolution
Storms quickly and dramatically alter barrier island environments by changing adjacent seafloor morphology, eroding beaches, scarping or leveling dunes, and sometimes creating new inlets. Measuring the magnitude of barrier island sediment movement during and after storms allows us to track rates of beach recovery, dune growth, and inlet-related alterations to barrier island sediment supply.
Barrier Island Sensitivity to Changes in Sediment Supply
Observations and models show that maintaining barrier islands requires a balance between sea-level rise and sediment supply. However, most estimates of sediment supply are not based on modern conditions, which could result in less accurate predictions of sediment fluxes. We explore how natural and human alterations impact modern sediment fluxes, or changes, on barrier islands – research that has...
Shoreface Morphology and Geology
Exchanges of sediment between the shoreface and barrier islands allow barrier islands to adjust to changes in water level, such as those associated with storms or sea-level rise. Characterizing shoreface morphology and geology allows us to explore how past and present processes have impacted modern barrier island sediment transport and what that means for future barrier island evolution.
Modeling Barrier Island Evolution, Shoreface Morphology, and Overwash
Barrier island field observations provide information about past and current environmental conditions and changes over time; however, they can’t tell us about the future. Models can predict possible future behaviors but are only as good as their input data. By integrating both observations and models, we can extend observations and arrive at more realistic predictions of barrier island behavior...
Coastal Sediment Availability and Flux (CSAF) Capabilities
As part of the Coastal Sediment Availability and Flux project, we use innovative technology and integrate a variety of techniques to characterize barrier island environments, reconstruct their past history, and predict their future vulnerability.
Secrets of the Sediment on Barrier Islands
Join the USGS St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center as they uncover the secrets of the sediment on barrier islands in Pinellas County, Florida. This video was originally created for use at the 2021 virtual St. Petersburg Science Festival. Listen to audio-described version.
Research Geologist Daniel Ciarletta holds up a sand auger core collected at Fire Island
Scientists collected sand auger cores from Fire Island to help reconstruct the evolution of the barrier over the last several centuries, with the goal of quantifying changes in sediment input and partitioning through time (e.g., how sand is distributed between the terrestrial portion of the barrier and the beach/shoreface).
Geologist Julie Bernier examines a water-logged sand auger core
Scientists collected sand auger cores from Fire Island to help reconstruct the evolution of the barrier over the last several centuries, with the goal of quantifying changes in sediment input and partitioning through time (e.g. how sand is distributed between the terrestrial portion of the barrier and the beach/shoreface).
Scientists collected sand auger cores from Fire Island to help reconstruct the evolution of the barrier over the last several centuries, with the goal of quantifying changes in sediment input and partitioning through time (e.g. how sand is distributed between the terrestrial portion of the barrier and the beach/shoreface).
Looking towards the beach in the High Dune Wilderness of Fire Island
Looking over the dunes towards the beach in the Otis Pike Fire Island High Dune Wilderness at Fire Island, New York.
Looking over the dunes towards the beach in the Otis Pike Fire Island High Dune Wilderness at Fire Island, New York.
USGS DUNEX Survey underway off of a USACE amphibious vessel
A geophysical instrument (chirp) is towed in the water (yellow instrument) from a floating sled to acquire information about the geology below the seafloor in Duck, NC as part of DUNEX. The USACE Field Research Facility can be seen in the background in the upper left corner.
A geophysical instrument (chirp) is towed in the water (yellow instrument) from a floating sled to acquire information about the geology below the seafloor in Duck, NC as part of DUNEX. The USACE Field Research Facility can be seen in the background in the upper left corner.
USACE LARC used for DUNEX field work
USGS Research Geologist Jennifer Miselis will conduct shoreface geophysical surveys at the USACE Field Research Facility during DUNEX aboard the LARC, which is shown here being set up for the survey.
USGS Research Geologist Jennifer Miselis will conduct shoreface geophysical surveys at the USACE Field Research Facility during DUNEX aboard the LARC, which is shown here being set up for the survey.
Beach and groin at Seven Mile Island, New Jersey
A groin at Seven Mile Island, New Jersey traps sand and contributes to widening of the barrier beach. This illustrates how human modification and wave processes shape the beach. In May 2021, Andrew Farmer, Chelsea Stalk, and Emily Wei conducted a multibeam bathymetry survey offshore of Seven Mile Island, along the southern coast of New Jersey.
A groin at Seven Mile Island, New Jersey traps sand and contributes to widening of the barrier beach. This illustrates how human modification and wave processes shape the beach. In May 2021, Andrew Farmer, Chelsea Stalk, and Emily Wei conducted a multibeam bathymetry survey offshore of Seven Mile Island, along the southern coast of New Jersey.
Succession of beach ridges, Caladesi Island, Gulf of Mexico coast, FL
Mendenhall postdoctoral fellow Daniel Ciarletta captured this view of the modern beach ridge system at Caladesi Island, along the Gulf coast of central Florida. Ciarletta and colleagues are studying the island as part of a project to explore barrier island response to long-term changes in sediment availability.
Mendenhall postdoctoral fellow Daniel Ciarletta captured this view of the modern beach ridge system at Caladesi Island, along the Gulf coast of central Florida. Ciarletta and colleagues are studying the island as part of a project to explore barrier island response to long-term changes in sediment availability.
Collecting sediment core with vibracore equipment at Mullet Key, FL
Dan Ciarletta (right) working alongside Julie Bernier (left) to collect a sediment core on Mullet Key, an island within Fort de Soto Park in Pinellas County, Florida. The core will be used to reconstruct the geologic history of the island.
Dan Ciarletta (right) working alongside Julie Bernier (left) to collect a sediment core on Mullet Key, an island within Fort de Soto Park in Pinellas County, Florida. The core will be used to reconstruct the geologic history of the island.
Surveying the Beach at Caladesi Island, Gulf of Mexico Coast, Florida
Mendenhall postdoctoral fellow Daniel Ciarletta and geologist Julie Bernier perform field reconnaissance at Caladesi Island, along the Gulf coast of central Florida. The scientists are refining a plan to sample and survey the island using sediment vibracores and ground-penetrating radar.
Mendenhall postdoctoral fellow Daniel Ciarletta and geologist Julie Bernier perform field reconnaissance at Caladesi Island, along the Gulf coast of central Florida. The scientists are refining a plan to sample and survey the island using sediment vibracores and ground-penetrating radar.
Cedar Island, Virginia 1994 - 2014
Cedar Island, Virginia is an uninhabited barrier that has migrated landward approximately 15-30 meters per year since 1984 due to its low sediment supply. The shoreface slope is gradual but almost entirely devoid of island sediment - both responses to its recent, rapid retreat. USGS scientists collect geologic and morphologic data from this island’s shoreface.
Cedar Island, Virginia is an uninhabited barrier that has migrated landward approximately 15-30 meters per year since 1984 due to its low sediment supply. The shoreface slope is gradual but almost entirely devoid of island sediment - both responses to its recent, rapid retreat. USGS scientists collect geologic and morphologic data from this island’s shoreface.
Fire Island, New York 1994 - 2014
Fire Island, New York is sparsely populated and regularly nourished, but has few modifications that impede natural sediment exchanges. Shoreface geomorphology reflects past periods of seaward progradation and alongshore extension resulting in a relatively sediment-rich shoreface. USGS scientists collect geologic and morphologic data from this island’s shoreface.
Fire Island, New York is sparsely populated and regularly nourished, but has few modifications that impede natural sediment exchanges. Shoreface geomorphology reflects past periods of seaward progradation and alongshore extension resulting in a relatively sediment-rich shoreface. USGS scientists collect geologic and morphologic data from this island’s shoreface.
Rockaway Beach, New York 1994 - 2014
Rockaway Beach, New York is heavily developed, has seawalls and groins and is regularly nourished. It hasn’t changed much over 20 years. The shoreface is steep and sediment cover doesn’t extend far from shore—likely the result of being fixed in place for decades. USGS scientists collect geologic and morphologic data from this island’s shoreface.
Rockaway Beach, New York is heavily developed, has seawalls and groins and is regularly nourished. It hasn’t changed much over 20 years. The shoreface is steep and sediment cover doesn’t extend far from shore—likely the result of being fixed in place for decades. USGS scientists collect geologic and morphologic data from this island’s shoreface.
Modeled beach profile evolution at Fishing Point, Virginia
Animation displays modeled beach profile elevation as it has evolved at Fishing Point, Virginia. These data are based on historical charts and images and measure distance (in kilometers) of cross-shore accretion. QS is the flux of sand to the beach, and QD is the flux of sand from the beach to the active dune.
Animation displays modeled beach profile elevation as it has evolved at Fishing Point, Virginia. These data are based on historical charts and images and measure distance (in kilometers) of cross-shore accretion. QS is the flux of sand to the beach, and QD is the flux of sand from the beach to the active dune.
Scientist deploys instrument during geophysical survey
A scientist deploys a sound velocity cast from a boat while conducting a chirp geophysical survey offshore of the Rockaway Peninsula, New York. These geophysical data were used to quantify volumes of available shoreface sediment on this margin.
A scientist deploys a sound velocity cast from a boat while conducting a chirp geophysical survey offshore of the Rockaway Peninsula, New York. These geophysical data were used to quantify volumes of available shoreface sediment on this margin.
Ocean view from Fire Island, NY
Fire Island is a barrier island off the coast of Long Island, New York that hosts several protected areas, nesting habitat for shorebirds, and beachgoers looking for a relaxing place for recreation. USGS studies how the island changes over time - in both the past and present - to better understand how the island may evolve in the future.
Fire Island is a barrier island off the coast of Long Island, New York that hosts several protected areas, nesting habitat for shorebirds, and beachgoers looking for a relaxing place for recreation. USGS studies how the island changes over time - in both the past and present - to better understand how the island may evolve in the future.
Using unique methods to measure nearshore and coastal geology
USGS scientists use specialized equipment to measure sediment dynamics in nearshore and coastal systems. Access by boat is limited in these areas, so personal watercraft are equipped with GPS and echosounders to collect bathymetric data. Seismic sleds are pulled along transects from the beach across the water to measure changes in sediment type below the water.
USGS scientists use specialized equipment to measure sediment dynamics in nearshore and coastal systems. Access by boat is limited in these areas, so personal watercraft are equipped with GPS and echosounders to collect bathymetric data. Seismic sleds are pulled along transects from the beach across the water to measure changes in sediment type below the water.
Illustration describes a barrier island from ocean to lagoon
Illustration shows the cross-section of a barrier island progressing from ocean (on the right) to marsh and then lagoon (on the left).
Illustration shows the cross-section of a barrier island progressing from ocean (on the right) to marsh and then lagoon (on the left).
Fire Island Lighthouse
Fire Island Lighthouse at Fire Island National Seashore
Fire Island Lighthouse at Fire Island National Seashore
Eroded dunes on Fire Island, New York, two years after Hurricane Sandy
Eroded dunes on Fire Island, New York, nearly two years after Hurricane Sandy.
Eroded dunes on Fire Island, New York, nearly two years after Hurricane Sandy.
Sediments are the foundation of coastal systems, including barrier islands. Their behavior is driven by not only sediment availability, but also sediment exchanges between barrier island environments. We collect geophysical, remote sensing, and sediment data to estimate these parameters, which are integrated with models to improve prediction of coastal response to extreme storms and sea-level rise.
Featured Publication
Featured Publication
The shorelines of Titan’s hydrocarbon seas trace flooded erosional landforms such as river valleys; however, it is unclear whether coastal erosion has subsequently altered these shorelines. Spacecraft observations and theoretical models suggest that wind may cause waves to form on Titan’s seas...
Featured Software
Featured Software
The Numerical model of coastal Erosion by Waves and Transgressive Scarps (NEWTS) model is a framework to simulate the erosion of a closed-basin coastline through time by fetch-dependent erosion or uniform erosion.
Barrier Islands as Connected Systems
With a wealth of knowledge about how shorelines, beaches, and dunes respond to storms and the variability of inner shelf geology, the USGS Coastal and Marine Hazards and Resources Program is poised to extend its morphologic and geologic expertise across the shoreface and back-barrier data gaps. Shoreface geology is particularly important to assess since it may record evidence of processes that we otherwise don’t have the opportunities or capabilities to observe. With these goals in mind, we measure geology and morphology in coastal environments to reconstruct past environmental histories and estimate the magnitude and rate of sediment exchanges (e.g., fluxes) over a range of time scales. Integration of these observations with models allows us to predict past and future behavior of barrier-island systems in a changing climate and provides information to help our partners mitigate coastal hazards and identify coastal restoration priorities.
Project Objectives:
- Incorporate shoreface morphology and geology into coastal-change assessments
- Conduct repeat geophysical surveys to estimate sediment fluxes with better accuracy and temporal resolution
- Understand how coastal systems respond to storms, variations in sediment supply and rate of sea-level rise over short (1-10s year) and long (100-1000 year) time scales
- Make predictions of future (long-term) coastal vulnerability and resilience rooted in robust morphologic and geologic observations
Sources/Usage: Public Domain. View Media Details
Learn more about the Coastal Sediment Availability and Flux project
Storm-Related Barrier Island Morphological Evolution
Storms quickly and dramatically alter barrier island environments by changing adjacent seafloor morphology, eroding beaches, scarping or leveling dunes, and sometimes creating new inlets. Measuring the magnitude of barrier island sediment movement during and after storms allows us to track rates of beach recovery, dune growth, and inlet-related alterations to barrier island sediment supply.
Barrier Island Sensitivity to Changes in Sediment Supply
Observations and models show that maintaining barrier islands requires a balance between sea-level rise and sediment supply. However, most estimates of sediment supply are not based on modern conditions, which could result in less accurate predictions of sediment fluxes. We explore how natural and human alterations impact modern sediment fluxes, or changes, on barrier islands – research that has...
Shoreface Morphology and Geology
Exchanges of sediment between the shoreface and barrier islands allow barrier islands to adjust to changes in water level, such as those associated with storms or sea-level rise. Characterizing shoreface morphology and geology allows us to explore how past and present processes have impacted modern barrier island sediment transport and what that means for future barrier island evolution.
Modeling Barrier Island Evolution, Shoreface Morphology, and Overwash
Barrier island field observations provide information about past and current environmental conditions and changes over time; however, they can’t tell us about the future. Models can predict possible future behaviors but are only as good as their input data. By integrating both observations and models, we can extend observations and arrive at more realistic predictions of barrier island behavior...
Coastal Sediment Availability and Flux (CSAF) Capabilities
As part of the Coastal Sediment Availability and Flux project, we use innovative technology and integrate a variety of techniques to characterize barrier island environments, reconstruct their past history, and predict their future vulnerability.
Secrets of the Sediment on Barrier Islands
Join the USGS St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center as they uncover the secrets of the sediment on barrier islands in Pinellas County, Florida. This video was originally created for use at the 2021 virtual St. Petersburg Science Festival. Listen to audio-described version.
Research Geologist Daniel Ciarletta holds up a sand auger core collected at Fire Island
Scientists collected sand auger cores from Fire Island to help reconstruct the evolution of the barrier over the last several centuries, with the goal of quantifying changes in sediment input and partitioning through time (e.g., how sand is distributed between the terrestrial portion of the barrier and the beach/shoreface).
Scientists collected sand auger cores from Fire Island to help reconstruct the evolution of the barrier over the last several centuries, with the goal of quantifying changes in sediment input and partitioning through time (e.g., how sand is distributed between the terrestrial portion of the barrier and the beach/shoreface).
Geologist Julie Bernier examines a water-logged sand auger core
Scientists collected sand auger cores from Fire Island to help reconstruct the evolution of the barrier over the last several centuries, with the goal of quantifying changes in sediment input and partitioning through time (e.g. how sand is distributed between the terrestrial portion of the barrier and the beach/shoreface).
Scientists collected sand auger cores from Fire Island to help reconstruct the evolution of the barrier over the last several centuries, with the goal of quantifying changes in sediment input and partitioning through time (e.g. how sand is distributed between the terrestrial portion of the barrier and the beach/shoreface).
Looking towards the beach in the High Dune Wilderness of Fire Island
Looking over the dunes towards the beach in the Otis Pike Fire Island High Dune Wilderness at Fire Island, New York.
Looking over the dunes towards the beach in the Otis Pike Fire Island High Dune Wilderness at Fire Island, New York.
USGS DUNEX Survey underway off of a USACE amphibious vessel
A geophysical instrument (chirp) is towed in the water (yellow instrument) from a floating sled to acquire information about the geology below the seafloor in Duck, NC as part of DUNEX. The USACE Field Research Facility can be seen in the background in the upper left corner.
A geophysical instrument (chirp) is towed in the water (yellow instrument) from a floating sled to acquire information about the geology below the seafloor in Duck, NC as part of DUNEX. The USACE Field Research Facility can be seen in the background in the upper left corner.
USACE LARC used for DUNEX field work
USGS Research Geologist Jennifer Miselis will conduct shoreface geophysical surveys at the USACE Field Research Facility during DUNEX aboard the LARC, which is shown here being set up for the survey.
USGS Research Geologist Jennifer Miselis will conduct shoreface geophysical surveys at the USACE Field Research Facility during DUNEX aboard the LARC, which is shown here being set up for the survey.
Beach and groin at Seven Mile Island, New Jersey
A groin at Seven Mile Island, New Jersey traps sand and contributes to widening of the barrier beach. This illustrates how human modification and wave processes shape the beach. In May 2021, Andrew Farmer, Chelsea Stalk, and Emily Wei conducted a multibeam bathymetry survey offshore of Seven Mile Island, along the southern coast of New Jersey.
A groin at Seven Mile Island, New Jersey traps sand and contributes to widening of the barrier beach. This illustrates how human modification and wave processes shape the beach. In May 2021, Andrew Farmer, Chelsea Stalk, and Emily Wei conducted a multibeam bathymetry survey offshore of Seven Mile Island, along the southern coast of New Jersey.
Succession of beach ridges, Caladesi Island, Gulf of Mexico coast, FL
Mendenhall postdoctoral fellow Daniel Ciarletta captured this view of the modern beach ridge system at Caladesi Island, along the Gulf coast of central Florida. Ciarletta and colleagues are studying the island as part of a project to explore barrier island response to long-term changes in sediment availability.
Mendenhall postdoctoral fellow Daniel Ciarletta captured this view of the modern beach ridge system at Caladesi Island, along the Gulf coast of central Florida. Ciarletta and colleagues are studying the island as part of a project to explore barrier island response to long-term changes in sediment availability.
Collecting sediment core with vibracore equipment at Mullet Key, FL
Dan Ciarletta (right) working alongside Julie Bernier (left) to collect a sediment core on Mullet Key, an island within Fort de Soto Park in Pinellas County, Florida. The core will be used to reconstruct the geologic history of the island.
Dan Ciarletta (right) working alongside Julie Bernier (left) to collect a sediment core on Mullet Key, an island within Fort de Soto Park in Pinellas County, Florida. The core will be used to reconstruct the geologic history of the island.
Surveying the Beach at Caladesi Island, Gulf of Mexico Coast, Florida
Mendenhall postdoctoral fellow Daniel Ciarletta and geologist Julie Bernier perform field reconnaissance at Caladesi Island, along the Gulf coast of central Florida. The scientists are refining a plan to sample and survey the island using sediment vibracores and ground-penetrating radar.
Mendenhall postdoctoral fellow Daniel Ciarletta and geologist Julie Bernier perform field reconnaissance at Caladesi Island, along the Gulf coast of central Florida. The scientists are refining a plan to sample and survey the island using sediment vibracores and ground-penetrating radar.
Cedar Island, Virginia 1994 - 2014
Cedar Island, Virginia is an uninhabited barrier that has migrated landward approximately 15-30 meters per year since 1984 due to its low sediment supply. The shoreface slope is gradual but almost entirely devoid of island sediment - both responses to its recent, rapid retreat. USGS scientists collect geologic and morphologic data from this island’s shoreface.
Cedar Island, Virginia is an uninhabited barrier that has migrated landward approximately 15-30 meters per year since 1984 due to its low sediment supply. The shoreface slope is gradual but almost entirely devoid of island sediment - both responses to its recent, rapid retreat. USGS scientists collect geologic and morphologic data from this island’s shoreface.
Fire Island, New York 1994 - 2014
Fire Island, New York is sparsely populated and regularly nourished, but has few modifications that impede natural sediment exchanges. Shoreface geomorphology reflects past periods of seaward progradation and alongshore extension resulting in a relatively sediment-rich shoreface. USGS scientists collect geologic and morphologic data from this island’s shoreface.
Fire Island, New York is sparsely populated and regularly nourished, but has few modifications that impede natural sediment exchanges. Shoreface geomorphology reflects past periods of seaward progradation and alongshore extension resulting in a relatively sediment-rich shoreface. USGS scientists collect geologic and morphologic data from this island’s shoreface.
Rockaway Beach, New York 1994 - 2014
Rockaway Beach, New York is heavily developed, has seawalls and groins and is regularly nourished. It hasn’t changed much over 20 years. The shoreface is steep and sediment cover doesn’t extend far from shore—likely the result of being fixed in place for decades. USGS scientists collect geologic and morphologic data from this island’s shoreface.
Rockaway Beach, New York is heavily developed, has seawalls and groins and is regularly nourished. It hasn’t changed much over 20 years. The shoreface is steep and sediment cover doesn’t extend far from shore—likely the result of being fixed in place for decades. USGS scientists collect geologic and morphologic data from this island’s shoreface.
Modeled beach profile evolution at Fishing Point, Virginia
Animation displays modeled beach profile elevation as it has evolved at Fishing Point, Virginia. These data are based on historical charts and images and measure distance (in kilometers) of cross-shore accretion. QS is the flux of sand to the beach, and QD is the flux of sand from the beach to the active dune.
Animation displays modeled beach profile elevation as it has evolved at Fishing Point, Virginia. These data are based on historical charts and images and measure distance (in kilometers) of cross-shore accretion. QS is the flux of sand to the beach, and QD is the flux of sand from the beach to the active dune.
Scientist deploys instrument during geophysical survey
A scientist deploys a sound velocity cast from a boat while conducting a chirp geophysical survey offshore of the Rockaway Peninsula, New York. These geophysical data were used to quantify volumes of available shoreface sediment on this margin.
A scientist deploys a sound velocity cast from a boat while conducting a chirp geophysical survey offshore of the Rockaway Peninsula, New York. These geophysical data were used to quantify volumes of available shoreface sediment on this margin.
Ocean view from Fire Island, NY
Fire Island is a barrier island off the coast of Long Island, New York that hosts several protected areas, nesting habitat for shorebirds, and beachgoers looking for a relaxing place for recreation. USGS studies how the island changes over time - in both the past and present - to better understand how the island may evolve in the future.
Fire Island is a barrier island off the coast of Long Island, New York that hosts several protected areas, nesting habitat for shorebirds, and beachgoers looking for a relaxing place for recreation. USGS studies how the island changes over time - in both the past and present - to better understand how the island may evolve in the future.
Using unique methods to measure nearshore and coastal geology
USGS scientists use specialized equipment to measure sediment dynamics in nearshore and coastal systems. Access by boat is limited in these areas, so personal watercraft are equipped with GPS and echosounders to collect bathymetric data. Seismic sleds are pulled along transects from the beach across the water to measure changes in sediment type below the water.
USGS scientists use specialized equipment to measure sediment dynamics in nearshore and coastal systems. Access by boat is limited in these areas, so personal watercraft are equipped with GPS and echosounders to collect bathymetric data. Seismic sleds are pulled along transects from the beach across the water to measure changes in sediment type below the water.
Illustration describes a barrier island from ocean to lagoon
Illustration shows the cross-section of a barrier island progressing from ocean (on the right) to marsh and then lagoon (on the left).
Illustration shows the cross-section of a barrier island progressing from ocean (on the right) to marsh and then lagoon (on the left).
Fire Island Lighthouse
Fire Island Lighthouse at Fire Island National Seashore
Fire Island Lighthouse at Fire Island National Seashore
Eroded dunes on Fire Island, New York, two years after Hurricane Sandy
Eroded dunes on Fire Island, New York, nearly two years after Hurricane Sandy.
Eroded dunes on Fire Island, New York, nearly two years after Hurricane Sandy.