Sediment Transport in Coastal Environments
Our research goals are to provide the scientific information, knowledge, and tools required to ensure that decisions about land and resource use, management practices, and future development in the coastal zone and adjacent watersheds can be evaluated with a complete understanding of the probable effects on coastal ecosystems and communities, and a full assessment of their vulnerability to natural and human-driven changes.
Coastal resource managers face a wide range of problems related to sediment transport. Sediment management or questions related to sediment transport are involved in dredging operations, preventing or planning for coastal erosion, evaluation of the impacts of anthropogenic alterations on coastal ecosystems, restoration of coastal habitats, and planning for climate change. To address these questions, coastal managers typically require both site-specific information about sediment transport processes, and predictive models of the outcome of potential management actions.
Understanding of sediment transport processes and the ability to model sediment transport have advanced significantly in recent decades, but important limitations remain. It is still a common practice to report results of sediment transport modeling with limited or no calibration, due to lack of suitable data for calibration. The relative importance of factors governing sediment transport varies between coastal environments due to differences in both sediment properties and physical forcing. The development of robust models of sediment transport applicable to all aquatic environments, and the movement of sediment between them, requires data from a range of settings for testing.
Project Objectives
- to utilize USGS Coastal and Marine Hazards and Resources Program expertise to investigate problems in coastal sediment transport that are relevant to sediment management issues, including protection of coastal ecosystems, reducing the risk of natural hazards, and adapting to or predicting effects of climate change
- to utilize the results obtained in these studies to improve understanding of sediment transport processes, and incorporate this improved understanding in predictive models
- to conduct research and advise resource managers on the impacts of human activities and the effectiveness of restoration measures on river, estuarine, and marine habitats in collaboration with federal, state, and local agencies, and academic partners.
Current Research Topics
Click to learn more about our research:
- Drag and sediment transport: conditions at the bottom boundary
- Coastal watershed and estuary restoration in the Monterey Bay area
- Sediment transport in submarine canyons
- Columbia River estuary
- San Francisco Bay geomorphology
- Sediment transport between estuarine habitats in San Francisco Bay
- Transport of invasive microorganisms
Below are the study topics associated with this project.
Below are data sets associated with this project.
Grain-size data from core S3-15G, Monterey Fan, Central California Grain-size data from core S3-15G, Monterey Fan, Central California
Hydrodynamic and sediment transport data from San Pablo Bay and Grizzly Bay, California, 2020 Hydrodynamic and sediment transport data from San Pablo Bay and Grizzly Bay, California, 2020
High-resolution (1 m) digital elevation model (DEM) of San Francisco Bay, California, created using bathymetry data collected between 1999 and 2020 (ver. 2.0, July 2021) High-resolution (1 m) digital elevation model (DEM) of San Francisco Bay, California, created using bathymetry data collected between 1999 and 2020 (ver. 2.0, July 2021)
Hydrodynamic and sediment transport data from San Pablo Bay and Grizzly Bay, California, 2019 Hydrodynamic and sediment transport data from San Pablo Bay and Grizzly Bay, California, 2019
Near-bed velocity measurements in Monterey Bay during arrival of the 2010 Chile Tsunami Near-bed velocity measurements in Monterey Bay during arrival of the 2010 Chile Tsunami
Pilot study on bathymetric change analyses in the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta, California Pilot study on bathymetric change analyses in the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta, California
Sediment Concentration, Water Velocity, and Suspended Particle Size and Settling Data to Estimate Estuarine Sediment Flux at Dumbarton Bridge, San Francisco Bay, CA from 2018 - 2019 Sediment Concentration, Water Velocity, and Suspended Particle Size and Settling Data to Estimate Estuarine Sediment Flux at Dumbarton Bridge, San Francisco Bay, CA from 2018 - 2019
Sediment transport and aquatic vegetation data from three locations in the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta, California, 2017 to 2018 Sediment transport and aquatic vegetation data from three locations in the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta, California, 2017 to 2018
Oceanographic measurements and hydrodynamic modeling of the mouth of the Columbia River, Oregon and Washington, 2013 Oceanographic measurements and hydrodynamic modeling of the mouth of the Columbia River, Oregon and Washington, 2013
Below are multimedia items associated with this project.
Sediment Transport in San Francisco Bay
The Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers deliver half the amount of sediment they did 50 years ago to San Francisco Bay. Just as sea-level rise is accelerating, the demand for sediment is growing. The amount of sediment supplied to estuaries is important to the fate of shallow water habitats, including mudflats and tidal marshes. In San Francisco Bay, U.S. Geological Survey scientists and...
Below are publications associated with this project.
Seasonal, spring-neap, and tidal variation in cohesive sediment transport parameters in estuarine shallows Seasonal, spring-neap, and tidal variation in cohesive sediment transport parameters in estuarine shallows
Sediment and organic carbon transport and deposition driven by internal tides along Monterey Canyon, offshore California Sediment and organic carbon transport and deposition driven by internal tides along Monterey Canyon, offshore California
The roles of flow acceleration and deceleration in sediment suspension in the surf zone The roles of flow acceleration and deceleration in sediment suspension in the surf zone
Linking direct measurements of turbidity currents to submarine canyon-floor deposits Linking direct measurements of turbidity currents to submarine canyon-floor deposits
Measuring settling velocity in a strongly tidal estuary Measuring settling velocity in a strongly tidal estuary
Discovery of an extensive deep-sea fossil serpulid reef associated with a cold seep, Santa Monica Basin, California Discovery of an extensive deep-sea fossil serpulid reef associated with a cold seep, Santa Monica Basin, California
Conceptualizing ecological responses to dam removal: If you remove it, what's to come? Conceptualizing ecological responses to dam removal: If you remove it, what's to come?
Do we know how much fluvial sediment reaches the sea? Decreased river monitoring of U.S. coastal rivers Do we know how much fluvial sediment reaches the sea? Decreased river monitoring of U.S. coastal rivers
Controls on submarine channel-modifying processes identified through morphometric scaling relationships Controls on submarine channel-modifying processes identified through morphometric scaling relationships
Controls on submarine canyon head evolution: Monterey Canyon, offshore central California Controls on submarine canyon head evolution: Monterey Canyon, offshore central California
The influence of neap-spring tidal variation and wave energy on sediment flux in salt marsh tidal creeks The influence of neap-spring tidal variation and wave energy on sediment flux in salt marsh tidal creeks
Wave attenuation across a tidal marsh in San Francisco Bay Wave attenuation across a tidal marsh in San Francisco Bay
Below are news stories associated with this project.
Our research goals are to provide the scientific information, knowledge, and tools required to ensure that decisions about land and resource use, management practices, and future development in the coastal zone and adjacent watersheds can be evaluated with a complete understanding of the probable effects on coastal ecosystems and communities, and a full assessment of their vulnerability to natural and human-driven changes.
Coastal resource managers face a wide range of problems related to sediment transport. Sediment management or questions related to sediment transport are involved in dredging operations, preventing or planning for coastal erosion, evaluation of the impacts of anthropogenic alterations on coastal ecosystems, restoration of coastal habitats, and planning for climate change. To address these questions, coastal managers typically require both site-specific information about sediment transport processes, and predictive models of the outcome of potential management actions.
Understanding of sediment transport processes and the ability to model sediment transport have advanced significantly in recent decades, but important limitations remain. It is still a common practice to report results of sediment transport modeling with limited or no calibration, due to lack of suitable data for calibration. The relative importance of factors governing sediment transport varies between coastal environments due to differences in both sediment properties and physical forcing. The development of robust models of sediment transport applicable to all aquatic environments, and the movement of sediment between them, requires data from a range of settings for testing.
Project Objectives
- to utilize USGS Coastal and Marine Hazards and Resources Program expertise to investigate problems in coastal sediment transport that are relevant to sediment management issues, including protection of coastal ecosystems, reducing the risk of natural hazards, and adapting to or predicting effects of climate change
- to utilize the results obtained in these studies to improve understanding of sediment transport processes, and incorporate this improved understanding in predictive models
- to conduct research and advise resource managers on the impacts of human activities and the effectiveness of restoration measures on river, estuarine, and marine habitats in collaboration with federal, state, and local agencies, and academic partners.
Current Research Topics
Click to learn more about our research:
- Drag and sediment transport: conditions at the bottom boundary
- Coastal watershed and estuary restoration in the Monterey Bay area
- Sediment transport in submarine canyons
- Columbia River estuary
- San Francisco Bay geomorphology
- Sediment transport between estuarine habitats in San Francisco Bay
- Transport of invasive microorganisms
Below are the study topics associated with this project.
Below are data sets associated with this project.
Grain-size data from core S3-15G, Monterey Fan, Central California Grain-size data from core S3-15G, Monterey Fan, Central California
Hydrodynamic and sediment transport data from San Pablo Bay and Grizzly Bay, California, 2020 Hydrodynamic and sediment transport data from San Pablo Bay and Grizzly Bay, California, 2020
High-resolution (1 m) digital elevation model (DEM) of San Francisco Bay, California, created using bathymetry data collected between 1999 and 2020 (ver. 2.0, July 2021) High-resolution (1 m) digital elevation model (DEM) of San Francisco Bay, California, created using bathymetry data collected between 1999 and 2020 (ver. 2.0, July 2021)
Hydrodynamic and sediment transport data from San Pablo Bay and Grizzly Bay, California, 2019 Hydrodynamic and sediment transport data from San Pablo Bay and Grizzly Bay, California, 2019
Near-bed velocity measurements in Monterey Bay during arrival of the 2010 Chile Tsunami Near-bed velocity measurements in Monterey Bay during arrival of the 2010 Chile Tsunami
Pilot study on bathymetric change analyses in the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta, California Pilot study on bathymetric change analyses in the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta, California
Sediment Concentration, Water Velocity, and Suspended Particle Size and Settling Data to Estimate Estuarine Sediment Flux at Dumbarton Bridge, San Francisco Bay, CA from 2018 - 2019 Sediment Concentration, Water Velocity, and Suspended Particle Size and Settling Data to Estimate Estuarine Sediment Flux at Dumbarton Bridge, San Francisco Bay, CA from 2018 - 2019
Sediment transport and aquatic vegetation data from three locations in the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta, California, 2017 to 2018 Sediment transport and aquatic vegetation data from three locations in the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta, California, 2017 to 2018
Oceanographic measurements and hydrodynamic modeling of the mouth of the Columbia River, Oregon and Washington, 2013 Oceanographic measurements and hydrodynamic modeling of the mouth of the Columbia River, Oregon and Washington, 2013
Below are multimedia items associated with this project.
Sediment Transport in San Francisco Bay
The Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers deliver half the amount of sediment they did 50 years ago to San Francisco Bay. Just as sea-level rise is accelerating, the demand for sediment is growing. The amount of sediment supplied to estuaries is important to the fate of shallow water habitats, including mudflats and tidal marshes. In San Francisco Bay, U.S. Geological Survey scientists and...
Below are publications associated with this project.
Seasonal, spring-neap, and tidal variation in cohesive sediment transport parameters in estuarine shallows Seasonal, spring-neap, and tidal variation in cohesive sediment transport parameters in estuarine shallows
Sediment and organic carbon transport and deposition driven by internal tides along Monterey Canyon, offshore California Sediment and organic carbon transport and deposition driven by internal tides along Monterey Canyon, offshore California
The roles of flow acceleration and deceleration in sediment suspension in the surf zone The roles of flow acceleration and deceleration in sediment suspension in the surf zone
Linking direct measurements of turbidity currents to submarine canyon-floor deposits Linking direct measurements of turbidity currents to submarine canyon-floor deposits
Measuring settling velocity in a strongly tidal estuary Measuring settling velocity in a strongly tidal estuary
Discovery of an extensive deep-sea fossil serpulid reef associated with a cold seep, Santa Monica Basin, California Discovery of an extensive deep-sea fossil serpulid reef associated with a cold seep, Santa Monica Basin, California
Conceptualizing ecological responses to dam removal: If you remove it, what's to come? Conceptualizing ecological responses to dam removal: If you remove it, what's to come?
Do we know how much fluvial sediment reaches the sea? Decreased river monitoring of U.S. coastal rivers Do we know how much fluvial sediment reaches the sea? Decreased river monitoring of U.S. coastal rivers
Controls on submarine channel-modifying processes identified through morphometric scaling relationships Controls on submarine channel-modifying processes identified through morphometric scaling relationships
Controls on submarine canyon head evolution: Monterey Canyon, offshore central California Controls on submarine canyon head evolution: Monterey Canyon, offshore central California
The influence of neap-spring tidal variation and wave energy on sediment flux in salt marsh tidal creeks The influence of neap-spring tidal variation and wave energy on sediment flux in salt marsh tidal creeks
Wave attenuation across a tidal marsh in San Francisco Bay Wave attenuation across a tidal marsh in San Francisco Bay
Below are news stories associated with this project.