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Scientific literature and information products produced by Woods Hole Coastal and Marine Science Center staff

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State of the science and decision support for measuring suspended sediment with acoustic instrumentation State of the science and decision support for measuring suspended sediment with acoustic instrumentation

Acoustic instrumentation can be used to provide time-series and discrete estimates of suspended-sediment concentration, load, and sediment particle sizes in fluvial systems, which are essential for creating informed solutions to many sediment-related environmental, engineering, and land management concerns. Historically, scientists have developed relations between suspended sediment
Authors
Molly Wood, Joel Groten, Timothy Straub, Dan Haught, Ronald Griffiths, Justin Boldt, Zulimar Lucena, Jeb E. Brown, Steven Suttles, Patrick J. Dickhudt

Incorporating wave climate complexity into modeling lower shoreface morphology and transport Incorporating wave climate complexity into modeling lower shoreface morphology and transport

The lower shoreface, a transitional subaqueous region extending from the seaward limit of the surf zone to beyond the closure depth, serves as a sediment reservoir and pathway in sandy beach environments over annual to millennial time scales. Despite the important role this region plays in shoreline dynamics, the morphodynamics of the lower shoreface remain poorly quantified and...
Authors
Megan Gillen, Andrew Ashton, Jennifer Miselis, Daniel Ciarletta, Emily Wei, Christopher Sherwood

A numerical investigation of the mechanisms controlling salt intrusion in the Delaware Bay Estuary A numerical investigation of the mechanisms controlling salt intrusion in the Delaware Bay Estuary

Salinity intrusion in coastal systems is mainly controlled by freshwater inflows. However, extreme events like drought, low-pressure storms, and longer-term sea level rise can exacerbate the landward salt migration and threaten economic infrastructure and ecological health. Along the eastern seaboard of the United States, approximately 13 million people rely on the water resources of the...
Authors
Salme Cook, John Warner, Kendra Russell

Forecasting sea level rise-driven inundation in diked and tidally restricted coastal lowlands Forecasting sea level rise-driven inundation in diked and tidally restricted coastal lowlands

Diked and drained coastal lowlands rely on hydraulic and protective infrastructure that may not function as designed in areas with relative sea-level rise. The slow and incremental loss of the hydraulic conditions required for a well-drained system make it difficult to identify if and when the flow structures no longer discharge enough water, especially in tidal settings where two-way...
Authors
Kevin Befus, A Kurnizki, Kevin Kroeger, Meagan Eagle, Timothy Smith

Accuracy of shoreline forecasting using sparse data Accuracy of shoreline forecasting using sparse data

Sandy beaches are important resources providing recreation, tourism, habitat, and coastal protection. They evolve over various time scales due to local winds, waves, storms, and changes in sea level. A common method used to monitor change in sandy beaches is to measure the movement of the shoreline over time. Typically, the rate of change is estimated by fitting a linear regression...
Authors
Amy Farris, Joseph Long, Emily Himmelstoss

Developing a habitat model to support management of threatened seabeach amaranth (Amaranthus pumilus) at Assateague Island National Seashore, Maryland and Virginia Developing a habitat model to support management of threatened seabeach amaranth (Amaranthus pumilus) at Assateague Island National Seashore, Maryland and Virginia

Amaranthus pumilus (seabeach amaranth) is a federally threatened plant species that has been the focus of restoration efforts at Assateague Island National Seashore (ASIS). Despite several years with strong population numbers prior to 2010, monitoring efforts have revealed a significant decline in the seabeach amaranth population since that time, the causes of which have been unclear. To...
Authors
Benjamin Gutierrez, Erika Lentz

Community for data integration 2019 project report Community for data integration 2019 project report

The U.S. Geological Survey Community for Data Integration annually supports small projects focusing on data integration for interdisciplinary research, innovative data management, and demonstration of new technologies. This report provides a summary of the 14 projects supported in fiscal year 2019 and outlines their goals, activities, and accomplishments. Proposals in 2019 were...
Authors
Amanda Liford, Caitlin Andrews, Aparna Bamzai-Dodson, Joseph A. Bard, David Blehert, John B. Bradford, Wesley M. Daniel, Sara Caldwell Eldridge, Frank Engel, Jason A. Ferrante, Amy Gilmer, Margaret E. Hunter, Jeanne Jones, Benjamin Letcher, Frances Lightsom, Richard McDonald, Leah Morgan, Sasha C. Reed, Leslie Hsu

Contributions to uncertainty in runup forecasts Contributions to uncertainty in runup forecasts

The U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) provides operational forecasts of total water levels (TWL) and coastal change. Uncertainties around forecast TWL are based on the temporal and spatial range of observed beach slopes near the forecast site. This paper investigates other sources of uncertainty that are not accounted for, focusing on four beaches where the USGS has deployed remote cameras...
Authors
Christopher Sherwood, Alfredo Aretxabaleta, Peter Traykovski, Jin-Si Over, David Foster, Jennifer Miselis, Tim Nelson, Erdinc Sogut

Modeling total water level and coastal change at Pea Island, North Carolina, USA Modeling total water level and coastal change at Pea Island, North Carolina, USA

The DUring Nearshore Event eXperiment (DUNEX) was carried out on Pea Island, North Carolina, USA between September-October 2021. We use a coupled numerical model (Windsurf) to hindcast the evolution of the DUNEX transect and produce a time series of hourly water levels at the shoreline from the model output. In addition to assessing the ability of Windsurf to reproduce TWL, we use model...
Authors
Michael Itzkin, Margaret Palmsten, Mark Buckley, Christopher Sherwood, Jenna A. Brown, Jin-Si R. Over, Peter A. Traykovski

Toward a total water level forecast of the Great Lakes Toward a total water level forecast of the Great Lakes

The combined effect of storm surge and large waves is the main driving mechanism that erodes beaches, inundates low-lying areas, leading to millions of dollars in property damage, loss of natural resources, and lives. The U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) aims to expand the real-time total water level (TWL) forecast provided in the Operational Total Water Level and Coastal Change Forecasts...
Authors
Erdinc Sogut, Alfredo Aretxabaleta, Andrew Ashton, Walter Barnhardt, Kara S. Doran, Margaret Palmsten

Wave asymmetry impacts on sediment processes at the nearshore of Fire Island, New York Wave asymmetry impacts on sediment processes at the nearshore of Fire Island, New York

Effects of wave asymmetry on sediment processes and coastal evolution were investigated using a field data set and a numerical model. Field observations at the nearshore of Fire Island, New York revealed sediment fluxes during various wave energy levels. The preliminary results indicate a strong correlation between the wave asymmetry and the onshore bedload fluxes. The model results...
Authors
M. S. Parlak, B. U. Ayhan, John Warner, Tarandeep Kalra, Ilgar Safak

Processes controlling coastal erosion along Cape Cod Bay, MA Processes controlling coastal erosion along Cape Cod Bay, MA

Cape Cod Bay, MA, is a semi-enclosed embayment in the northeastern United States, open on the north to the Gulf of Maine. The coastline experiences impacts typically from strong Nor’easter storms that occur in the late fall or winter months, with some sections of this coastline being affected more severely than others. We investigate the processes that cause spatial variability in storm...
Authors
John Warner, Laura Brothers, Emily Himmelstoss, Christopher Sherwood, Alfredo Aretxabaleta, David Foster, Amy Farris
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